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http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Newell-Coac...1190693180

My level auto and manual quit. Newell said they could no do anything because the HWH knowledge left. Went to HWH in Moscow iowa, they where good on the  electronic end but not to much on the mechanical. They worked on it 6 hours and gave up and pulled the brain and sent it to lab. Next morning was sitting by my coach at 700 am. Put the brain back in and worked great. Was really worried about the bill. Got it that afternoon 192 dollars.

A Guru buddy told me about some wiring chafing he had.  After a day of polishing my chrome brake chambers, I decided to look for any wire problems.  I found no chafing but I did find an area of concern.  The plastic wire loom from the alternator to the stainless steel compartment on the right side of the engine compartment had a 6" area that the plastic wire loom had crystallized from the heat of the exhaust manifold.  The wires were exposed, but luckily undamaged.  I wrapped the area with heat shield and routed the wires as far from the exhaust manifold as possible.  This is something for the diyers to check.

Thanks Russ for the heads up.................................

Listing for a 1991 Newell on Ebay.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Newell-Coach-Mod...1707785328

VIN listed is correct for #271 but the coach is listed as Coach 270 with a length of 44' (Coach 271 is 40'0" and 270 is 41'3") although the text later says 42'3".  Interior layout seems to match the floorplan for 270.  The listing says it is a 1990 (although the text later says 1991).  Both 270 and 271 are 1991 models (tenth digit of VIN is an M, a 1990 would be an L).  The first 1991 model was #247. See http://buynewellrv.com/ for additional information and photos.

I get promotional emails from lots of different sources, and this one came in today at felt that I should share. It's a today only offer for two solar bug zappers for $22, but I wasn't even aware that such an item existed.

http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=S...ocation=01

Hi all,


we had a great time in Tahoe this summer.  The group was small but the fun and fellowship was immense.  

Last year i didnt start the rally planning soon enough for a variety of personal reasons, none of which are a good excuse.  

My thoughts for 2016 is to be centrally located in the USA.  

Criteria are as follows.  

1.  An RV park capable of handling 20 or more coaches that are humongo like ours.  all with 50a full hookups
     
you all know what type of rv parks that you like to stay at, so use that as a guide.  


2.  a park where we can be grouped together


3.  a location with moderate weather.  i live in the desert of arizona.  and what is hot to me is not the same as what is hot to some of you.  anything under 100 is springtime here....so i assume we want a place that is in the low 80's or less and hopefully not uber rainy.  


4.  time is when it is not crowded.  i have tried to have them when those gurus with families in school can attend in the past but most gurus are empty nesters so that is not an absolute for timing.  


5.  the park needs to have a place we can all gather in for potlucks or seminars.  


the goal would be to have it decided by late fall.  


ok....the suggestion box is open


oh, and i am the final decision maker.  


tom

Does anyone know how to change and where to get bulbs for those aviation style post lights on the switch panels? I have a 1995.
Thanks,
Bill

I have read other threads about different thoughts about charging an SCS basement unit. Of course this doesn't need to be done unless you break into the system or have a leak. 

Method one is to charge to the weight listed on the literature. That would be 36 ounces R 22

Method two is to charge to the amperage curve listed in the SCS literature. Rheavn was kind enough to post the literature on the forum.

Now that I have been into the innards of my SCS unit to replace a compressor, I believe there is a third way, and perhaps the best way to charge the system. The system is designed with a thermal expansion valve in each loop. In today's world of high efficiency AC units most home AC's are now using thermal expansion valves (called TXV or TEV for short). The accepted practice today is to measure the supercool of the unit and charge to achieve the appropriate supercool. 

This method requires that the temperature of the line just before the TXV is accurately measured. That temperature is compared to the saturation temp of the refrigerant at the high side pressure. The difference is supercool. I set the unit up for 8 degrees of supercool. It is . blowing 60 degree air to the bedroom.  The reason I post this is that the charge weight used to achieve this result is not the listed charge weight, and the amperage is also different. So, none of the three methods agree. 

Not to be an AC lesson, but let me take a simplified explanation of supercool . Let's use water as the make believe refrigerant. If the system were open, most would agree water will boil at 212 degrees. If we close the system and raise the pressure, most would understand the boiling point goes up. That relationship between boiling point and pressure is know as the saturation temperature. 
Stay with me on this simple explanation. Let's say that the pressure on the high side of our water system is 15 psi (atmospheric pressure) so water would naturally boil at 212. But we measure the temperature of the water coming out of the compressor and it's actually 206 degrees. You would have 6 degrees of supercool. 

I go through all this because the old school method of simply looking at the gauges on a system with a TXV simply does not result in the optimal charge for that type of system. I have read the other posts and the dissatisfaction that folks have had with results. The good news is that any decently skilled AC tech should know how to charge a TXV system. Because the TXV automatically regulates the low side pressure, it makes it impossible to get the very best charge just by using gauges only. 

My purpose in the post was to arm you with the right question to ask if someone is working on your SCS unit. How many degrees of supercool is the unit running? 

Hi Guys,

hope someone can help with this one. Cranked the coach the other day & the touch panel to level the coach only had the "travel mode" light on. I pushed the level

button & all the lights came on. Air pressure stays up but will not level or raise the coach.

After talking to HWH i sent my old touch panel in for a rebuild. I also ordered a new touch panel. After checking the continuity of the 8 wire cable to the control box &

pulling & checking all the fuses i could find that pertains to the leveling system & installing the new panel......still had the problem.

The only thing that turns off all the panel lights except for the travel light is when i pull on & off the parking air brake lever.

thanks

Newell Coach 1999 # 527. have owned for seven years.

If you have a system with an engine charging system with an external voltage regulator this document will help you identify what is causing your problem.  Simple testing if you are familiar with the use of common volt meters.