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12-27-2024, 12:29 AM
Forum: Discussion about what to consider on buying a used Newell
- Replies (3)
All,
I have been in the hunt for a Newell Coach for a while and have found several that I am considering.
The coach I am looking at are 2007 - 2010
What should I look for?
What should I ask for?
Besides the typical Battery, Tires and slides what should I look for?
Is there a list that I need to go through?
I will also need an independent inspector. Any suggestions for who to call? (Florida and Texas for now)
How can I check the windows and airbags and what do I need to look out for when opening and closing the slides
How can I confirm the status of the engine and Gen engine?
What about the heater, AC and the aquahot system?
What would be recommended to check all the internal, electrical and mechanical operations.
Soo many questions
Thank you in advance
Josh

I had to run an errand in Ocala today, much to my surprise I spotted a cream colored Newell northbound on 75 just south of Ocala. It takes a second but the brain wakes up, and I think, I know that coach. The towed trailer was another reminder. It was one of our gurus. Jeff Lo Giuduice. I hope you made it through the Ocala madness without incident.

I tried the search function on this but (as usual) I could not get the answer.
I have almost no hot water out of my shower valve. From the amount of crap I have pulled out of my screens. In other faucets its likely the screen is plugged. I cannot figure out how to get the temperature control knob off. There is no removable cap on the front of the knob to conceal a set screw. Does anybody know how to get this thing apart? Additional info: Hot water in all other faucets works great so I doubt it’s the mixing valve at the aqua hot. Thank you.

My #1 pump isn’t spinning. There’s a bit of a shaking sound and I see the motor shimmy a bit, but it doesn’t turn. It’s drawing 2A, then drops off in a cycle - looks like is turning it on, then shutting down because of over current, then repeats every few seconds. Is this the motor, or is there something else like a stuck one way valve? I’ve tapped both the motor and the one way and nothing changed. Any definitive diagnosis or further tests that are worth trying?
Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Has anyone used Amsoil ATF in the hydraulic system? not sure what came out of my system that I drained.
Thanks
JD

We are at a campground in Laurel,MS
Had 3 ceramic space heaters plugged in around the coach to get us by for the night. Wifey turned on the microwave and blew something. The bedroom heater is running but the front living room area and bath areas and microwave and fridge are not running
- we checked the gfci in the bath area and it is good but no power.
- checked the breaker in the driver side bay inverter compartment and it is not working.
Not sure how to check output on the inverter but it an old Freedom 25 that I was planning to replace :-(
We can run the Aquahot on electric and diesel so we won’t freeze but worried about the fridge…
I’ll check each outlet with an amp meter to see if they are indeed working or not.
Afternoon everyone. Rear slide hwh board went dark last week. Working through the system systematically. All fuses and relays check good, no power going to the solenoids, jumping 12 volts to the solenoids will allow the slide to operate. No power going to the lock unlock solenoids either however the rear lock has already been bypassed. Front slide works great. Seems to be a board issue at this time but wanted to ensure the limit switches are not playing a part. Disassembled the bed and checked the extend limit switch easy, however the retract limit switch is MIA. Anyone knows where it's hiding? Picture of my limit switch is attached. Thanks everyone!
Jesse and Sara White
2001 Newell Coach 2 Slide - 582
Wasilla Alaska
My low air beeper has stoped working. The light in the dash still comes on, so I’m sure it’s the beeper itself or a wire has come loose. Not sure where to look, so I thought I’d ask here first. I know no two Newells are alike, but does anybody have any idea where I should start looking?
Started my 48v lithium battery conversion. Since I won’t have time to install the 48v Victron inverter before our Christmas trip, I’m just wiring a few of the batteries in parallel for now. I had to take care of some minor rust (much better shape than the wet bay!!!) and it looks great now. I really like the Ospho rust converter. I scraped the bad areas, treated first with Ospho, then Rustolum rust restorer and then paint. Looks much better. I should have gotcha better “before” pic. Also, it’s amazing how much better the battery trays slide with little grease and 1/2 the weight!

I’m switching out my batteries and inverter to a 48 volt victron system. This is obviously causing me to have to rework the 12v systems in the coach. Most of what I need to accomplish can be done with a 48 to 12 volt Dc to dc converter (or actually 2) but the generator start system has me thinking an independent start battery might be the best option. I suppose I could change the generator start over to the chassis batteries (as I’m going to with the slide hydraulic motors) but I fell like having its own battery may be a good idea. I could always wire up a starter relay to the chassis batteries as a back up. Can anybody think of a reason why I shouldn’t do this and any recommendations on a battery size. Just for fun I used my 330 cca lawnmower battery and it seemed to start the generator fine, but it was a brand new battery.