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• Latest member:GLENN

Hi all. 
I am quite new to the whole concept/world of Newell and am absolutely obsessed!!!
In the past we my wife and I have owned TT, class C and a 45’ toy hauler 5th wheel.  I am mechanically inclined and enjoy maintenance projects. 

My wife is in a wheelchair and we want to go full time or most time for a couple years and really travel around Canada and USA. We have a bit of wanderlust!  
Our focus has been on newmar 4311(wheelchair lift model) but recently I have stumbled on a Newell that has a lift built in.  
This layout of this Newell is actually quite similar to the Newmar. 

The unit is #1241.  A 2008 mid entry. 
It has 145,000 miles on it. 
From the pictures it looks in great shape. 

Is there anything specific I should be asking about from the maintenance side on this unit? 
Does anyone on here know any of the backstory on this unit? 
What about the value? 

I appreciate any feedback!  

Thanks!!

My ceramic tankage heater is dead. It is a Rival ceramic heater. Does anyone know what wattage it is? I found a 500watt non T-stat amazon brand that I can wire to the existing thermostat in the compartment.

i have a 2004 Newell Coach 450 if anyone can help i have valid electric slides, drivers side rear/bedroom now wont move i can hear the motor turning but no
action can anyone tell me how to get access to the motors?

My friend is looking for a used 9kw +or- diesel generator. Any leads appreciated!

Back in the 90's there was an excellent article on motorhome chassis written by Bob Gummersall, the Chief Technical Officer for RVersOnline.org that totally changed how I viewed motorhomes. There are still many articles written by Bob on their website, but the chassis article has been removed. My assumption is that RV manufacturers applied pressure to have the article removed as it pointed out how unsafe frame rail chassis motorhomes are.

Recently a user shared pictures on the FaceBook group "Class A Diesel Pusher Motorhomes RV Coaches" showing the aftermath of a blown steer tire.

       

There was a post by another user asking which was better, a Spartan on Freightliner chassis. I posted the following response which was removed with a warning.

   

This is a copy of Bob's article preserved by @fulltiming on Luxury Coach Lifestyle. Michael Day's post

The Chassis under 99% of the Class A Motorhomes manufactured today is a basic Frame Rail. One Hundred % of over the road passenger buses are built on monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis. Full monocoque chassis surround the complete vehicle with frame members. Semi-monocoque chassis use frame members on the lower half of the vehicle, and that provides a very strong base for the rest of the coach. I wonder why that is? A monocoque construction technique is like that of a girder type bridge with support elements diagonally placed between vertical and horizontal elements. Like bus chassis a motorhome semi-monocoque chassis use less weight and gain more strength. Like Greyhound type buses and all new automobiles, this technique provides more rigidity while providing huge inside storage and living space. Frame rails are used in most trucks from pickup to 18-wheelers and the cab is always separate from the payload body. That is because, no matter how big and strong the frame rail is, there is significant torque turning, or twisting, from the front to the rear of the vehicle. In order to limit the damage from this twisting process, truck chassis manufacturers heat treat or temper the rails after key holes are drilled to accommodate components to be attached. Drilling new holes or welding any new components to this hardened frame rail, voids the warranty because it is therefore weakened. Special fasteners, called huck bolts, are normally used to attach truck components to the frame rail because normal bolts no matter how tight they are installed, will eventually loosen.


Motorhome manufacturers use the front and rear caps, the side walls, roof and floor to stiffen the box against this always present torque or twisting. They use special glues and fasteners to attach large sheets of plywood and fiberglass to a simple steel or aluminum frame for all six sides of this box to make it stay together. If perfectly done, the box sides will stiffen the whole vehicle. If not perfectly done, fiberglass will be delaminated, rear overhangs will droop, front and rear caps will crack, many unfixable rattles will develop, and the structural integrity in case of an accident will be weakened. I have seen roll over accidents where all six sides of the frame rail chassis came apart. I have seen roll over accidents of monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis that have simply been righted and driven away. I have not seen any roll over accidents with frame rail chassis where all six sides stayed together. I have not seen a single roll over accident with a monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis where the six sides did not stay together.

If you ride in a 20 year old passenger bus or semi-monocoque motorhome you will find that it is still tight and almost rattle free. It is rare if you find a 20 year old frame rail chassis that that tight. There is really no comparison between the chassis types concerning passenger safety. The monocoque or semi-monocoque wins every time.

So why don't more motorhome manufacturers use a semi-monocoque chassis? The reason is primarily cost. Spartan, Freightliner, Ford, and Union Bay (used to be Chevrolet) supply frame rail chassis to volume motorhome manufacturers. Some makers like Winnebago, cut a frame rail in two, and build a center section that is semi-monocoque design to strengthen the vehicle and gain large storage compartments. All other makes of monocoque or semi-monocoque coaches, manufacturer custom chassis to meet their own specific requirements. Newell, Vogue, Monaco, Foretravel, and Country Coach are the major coaches makers that use custom designed semi-monocoque chassis. These companies have a chassis division that supplies them with proprietary products.

I have the TU-501 compressor on my 8v92. Is there an intake filter for those? I haven't contorted myself to crawl over the engine to see. Or is it piped into the main air filter?

I have been working on detailing the engine and of course discovered a broken a/c compressor mount. I since welded it. My question is whether this type of compressor still used the R12. No one seems to know when I brought it in for service. Compressor is large square unit and is hard to see in the pic. Ports are labeled Suction and Discharge at the top. Dash air does not work. Previous owner had declined to service it and in their paperwork their servicer stated they had no idea what type of refrigerant was in the system.

I am purchasing an old Newell ('84) with extensive water damage. I planned to replace/update most of the interior anyway, so not put off too much. Does anyone have pointers on the repair process. Two walls are pretty much gone, and lots of rot near windows. Do the rivets fail on the exterior allowing water penetration? Any advice is greatly appreciated!!

My Newell has a Ford 391 industrial engine, is this a direct derivative of the 390 ? 
Because they have very little information here ( Netherlands ) about the 391, but they do about the 390.

I also want to install a HEI ignition, do I have to assume a 390, will this also fit?
Thanks.

Like to try to post stuff I go through so that it may help others who are also new on their journey.  Had my Pressure Pro TPMS put on late summer and just love it.  Noticed last time out that after about 30 minutes of driving I had and inner drive tire gaining about 5 pounds and it was not in the sun, etc.  By the time I got back in another 30 minutes it had went up a few more pounds and both it and the outer drive tire showed higher temps than all other tires.  Checked hub temps with IR gun and sure enough that hub was 30 degrees higher than all others.  Knew I had a problem, but wasn't sure what it was and I had an air leak to tend to so I put the coach back in the shed, addressed the air leak and then attempted to figure this out a couple weeks later.

Figured maybe I could feel it dragging so I first tried to get up to about 5 MPH and coast in neutral, didn't notice anything.  Jacked up that side and spun wheel by hand and while maybe it felt like there was a little friction these novice hands didn't know.  Figured I'd jack up the other side to see how easily they spun and it's possible to say maybe it was easier to spin the other side, but it was so slight maybe it was in my head.  But I figured it wasn't like it was hung up in significantly so I figured I'd go for another short drive and check temps.

Same exact thing.  Temps go up on TPMS, pressure increased due to temps.  After discussing issue with a fellow guru I realized what I needed to do was us my IR gun to shoot brake rotor temps to see if it's actually the brakes. Super easy to check as you could just shoot it from the other side of the coach.  Sure enough rotor temp was about 175 from purely highway driving on bad side and good side is about 75 degrees.  

So what did I learn?

1.) Checking hub temps matters.
2.) TPMS can be a helpful tool more than just a tire going down.
3.) You can't tell if a brake is dragging mildly by spinning wheel.
4.) If you suspect something is getting hot and you think it might be the brakes, check the temp on the rotor so you know if it's do not pass go hot or dragging slightly like mine is so I can still drive it down to the shop I use to fix it.  Hub temp was my first notice, but should have checked rotor temp immediately.

Funny how it all seems so logical AFTER you figure it out.