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My wife and I are looking  to purchase either a Newell or Wanderlodge LXI, our budget is 60k.  We are concentrating our search on model years 95-02’ with a Series 60, Aqua Hot, and a Tag. We expect to remodel the interior to our personal taste;however, we do want a mechanically sound coach! If you are selling or thinking about it--let’s talk!
-We live in SW Florida-will travel for coach
-60k cash
-Please, share your thoughts? I won’t know till you tell me. We are new and trying to find what we think will be perfect for our family!
Thank you,
Victor & Shelley
941-321-8422

Just completed a 6,000 mile trip to the east coast and no issues with our coach #347.  At the outset of our next trip, after prepping the coach, I went to start and the coach would not start from the driver's seat. Batteries were fine and all gauges activated.  After some contemplation i remembered there's a remote starter switch in the rear control panel.  Opened the panel, set the safety switch to "on" and turned the starter switch and the coach started.  I am able to stop the motor from the ignition switch, but can't start the coach.  I went back to the driver's seat and with the safety switch in the "on" position the coach started as normal.  It seems the safety switch should not be in the "on" position to start the engine.  Is there a neutral safety switch somewhere in the starter circuit that may be bad?

Gurus,
On out last trip we smelled exhaust fumes inside the coach when we ran the AH or the generator.  I could see smoke exiting the exhaust elbow joint at the AH.  The horizontal exhaust pipe going across the coach to the vertical exhaust pipe had a ragged fiberglass wrap that needed replacement anyway.  Investigating on how best to wrap the pipe I went ahead and removed the pipe or should I say "Sawzalled the pipe".  Once removed, the AH elbow joint was rusted at least half way around the joint hence the smoke exiting,  Also, under the wrap there were several holes rusted through the pipe.  At least from the AH I am sure this is the source of the fumes and possibly from the generator given the common connection point to the vertical exhaust pipe.  The fix is in work and will update when completed.
               

Crazy as this sounds, I just noticed I am missing one surround trim  on a gauge in my electric monitoring panel.

Anyone know where to get one that matches??

Thanks!

I installed a new 7 pin trailer receptacle on my coach. Original was round pin and required an adapter to work with my Jeep. I will tuck up the harness once I paint the chassis underside with Por 15 chassis paint. That said, there was no 12v+ source to keep Jeep battery charged and it would go dead at each destination. Newell had extra wires rolled up behind the engine electric box that was accessed when removing the top. I found them by accident and toned them out to ensure that's what they were for. In doing so, I toned out a wire from the spares in the rear box that go to the front fuse panel in front of the passenger seat. There was one spare fuse that I used to connect the +12v trailer receptacle for toad battery charging. All is great. So I am wondering if it is worth bringing a blue trailer brake wire online. I have the Air Force One braking system on the Jeep. Should I bother installing an electric braking controller? I don't think I will pull a big trailer but who knows, right? I did connect the backup light pin in the receptacle. Basically all pins are accounted for except the trailer brake. I would have to double up on two #14's to carry the load since it's a long trip from front to rear. Looking for opinions.

When my compressor is running I’m also getting a little bit of air coming out from the compressor where the top bolts down and I’m assuming there is some type of gasket there as well.  Just wondering if that is normal or if a gasket or something has blown out.

Prior to knowing I had an HWH problem compressor ran non stop for quite some time as had got pretty hot.  Once I fixed the relay that caused the issue and fired the compressor back up it still makes air, but just wondering if it’s normal to have this other air coming out.

Was chasing down a little leak coming out of my 120v compressor and after I fixed that I found a pretty good sized leak coming out of both of these push fittings on the yellow lines.

Curios of a couple things/

1.) What they feed as it looks like it lust comes into this bay, goes through that union and goes right back out?

2.) Is the solution just a compression fitting?

Not sure what this is called but I have been cleaning the underside of the bus the last couple of days. Today while continuing on my degreasification, I heard and felt bubbling in the transmission oil pan. I believe this fitting is leaking air into the transmission. I have my 120v compressor on so the system is always pressurized. One of the great things of having a pit is finding crap you would never had known was at fault! The piece in question is where the blue air line goes into.


Edit:

After a couple hours of research and cross referencing, I found the part. For those of you with the HT740 transmissions, this is a Williams Controls air modulator. Part number is WM775B or 117830. Prices range from a low of $60 to a high of $407. Found a new one on eBay for $160 delivered. Most places were out of stock or you had to call to see if they were available.

220 mi into our trip and the turbo blew out lost all boost, decreased power and a ton of white smoke. Need to get a replacement turbo ASAP. I pinched off the rubber part of the oil feed just outside the oil filter housing still leaking by oil coming out of the exhaust.

Coach 647 2003,
Bode door will not close or open by push button, i have tried adjusting air setting. Sometimes i can get to work for a few tries then quits again.
Any help be appreciated, James Price