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The initial part of the plumbing system is the water inlet and associated hose reel.  My Glendenning reel stopped working and I have been trying to figure the source of the problem.  The circuit breaker on the switch was inoperative, impossible to reset, so I began to take the switch apart.  Long story short, I found that the hot side wasn’t hot, so there should be a fuse somewhere.  The manual calls for a 10 amp fuse in line on the hot side in spite of the circuit breaker being identified as 4 amps.  Anyway I have searched high and low on my fuse panels and can’t find the location of the associated fuse. I did find an unlabeled 7.5 amp fuse that had blown and replaced that but still no joy.  Called Newell and they weren’t able to help either.  I will try them again on Monday.

Does anyone have any idea where the fuse for the hose reel might be located? And also but less important, does anyone have any idea what circuit might require the 7.5 amp fuse?

Any input appreciated!

Terry
Currently in Santa Fe and headed for Pagosa Springs later this week.

I have a 1996 coach with a Detroit Diesel Series 60 engine.  My start batteries need to be replaced and was wondering what is the appropriate size in CCA and CA on these 8d batteries?  I'm probably going to use AGM batteries and would like to hear any recommendations on the best place to purchase the batteries?.  

Thanks,
Jerry

This is one I went to look at the other day and hope to own soon.  I did a video while I was there and put it on my YouTube.

Forgot to take a picture.  Today after eating lunch with Tom & Darlene at Happy Jack Lodge & RV park we saw a nice 1997 single slide parked there.  At first I thought it was our old #486 since the colors were so similar.

we were up at our cabin in happy jack with forest and cindy and went to lunch at happy jack rv park.  afterwards we drove around the park and spotted a pretty multi tan colored newell.  

appeared to be a one slide so i will call it a 97.  the front slide was not out.  there was a white pickup there but no one was out and about.  

tom

I posted this thread in another location earlier, then found this may be the more appropriate spot for this question. We have a coach on retainer pending inspection, etc. My question is...items found in the inspection that need attention and/or repair, who is responsible for paying for that work? Does the owner pay for it before the coach is passed on in purchase? i would assume this works similar to real estate transactions where the seller either makes the repairs or negotiates down on the price to compensate for the repair being done later by the buyer? I've never purchased a vehicle of any sort under consignment, so we are sort of flying blind in this regard. 

Any other suggestions regarding the process we are about to enter are welcomed. I want to avoid any oversights during this process, so feel free to add lessons learned, etc. 

All comments are most welcome. 

Gary

We are going into negotiation on a coach. It's a consignment. When the coach is received by the sales agent, it is inspected for issues and items that need to be repaired prior to sale. My assumption is that the owner of the coach placing it into consignment is on the hook for those repairs. It's also quite possible that the cost of repairs is added to the price of the coach before it goes out the door. Am I off on this? Is it handled differently? Any insight is very much appreciated. I've never purchased on consignment so this is somewhat new to me. 

Gary

Hey Folks,

Just wanted to introduce myself.  My name is Wil and I'm here because I've currently got a purchase pending on a 1982 38 ft "Classic" I guess is what they go by.  It's got a Detroit 6v92 engine in it and I failed to get the transmission numbers.  I've already learned a lot from the posts here and hope to be able to learn some more and add a bunch of my own experience to it if this all works out.  I have the following challenges that I know of, if anyone is interested or has experience:

1. It's 3 hours away from me
   
2. Coach has been sitting for about 3 years - last started 9 months ago, before I went to look and got it started briefly.
   
3. Won't stay running at the moment - I think it was probably the fuel filter (I replaced the primary) or fuel prime or a combo, but my batteries (woefully undersized) went dead and I ran out of time before I could really troubleshoot
   
4. Air seems to be leaked all the way down - probably not running long enough or well enough to pump itself back up, but next time I will try to use an air compressor now that I've learned a little about that - It's an air throttle, so you can't even try to keep it running without going back there and moving it by hand
   
5. I'm in NC where we have a limit of 26001 lbs for a regular class C license - I have a feeling this thing is more than that?  So if that is the case, even if I got it drivable I might not be able to drive it legally.  Thoughts on weight?  I forgot to look for a GVWR tag while I was there. 
   
6. At this point - I think I'm leaning towards having it transported/towed the 200 or so miles to my house where I can work on it and don't have to worry about the legalities of driving it, or the maintenance and repairs required to get it safe to drive,  but maybe I'm just being too paranoid.  Maybe I should just go for it?   The owner said she would not have an issue with me letting it sit there while I work on it some after I buy it.
   

Anyway, long intro, but I figured I would just jump right in.  Hope everyone is doing well and had a great Memorial Day!

Thanks,

Wil

1.  

Hello all. 
    My Dometic refrigerator lower right door hinge mounted to the door frame made out of molded plastic has crumbled. Upon closer inspection, it had been repaired once before and I didn’t realize that when we purchased the coach last month. Has anyone else had the same type of issue with the dometic refrigerators? A Norcold 8 sq ft RV dual model was original in the classic coach and replaced in 2005 or so with this dometic. If I remember reading in the guru forum that Newell started installing residential refrigerators in the newer models in the 90s?? anyway before I get out the JB weld or trying to manufacture a bracket, I thought I would see if anyone had any successful suggestions for repair. The fridge works well otherwise. Thanks in advance. We appreciate all your information.

I think I have a new one, at least my searches didn't turn up anything.  The RV has been parked in the barn (plugged in) since mid March, fire it up, including the generator, every two to three weeks.  A couple of odd things have happened in that time, the engine batteries don't seem to be charging and the touchpad on the bodie door is acting weird.  When I go to open it, I put in the code and the door opens without pushing the silver button.  To close the door I have to hit 555 which starts the horn sounding the alarm then input the door code which closes the door, again without pushing the silver button.  To open the door again I must enter the 555 lock code, then the door code.  Any Ideas?