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  Generator exhaust

Posted by: Tf175
04-02-2021, 01:42 PM
Forum: Generators
- Replies (22)

Generator exhaust , inside the compartment . I replaced the exhaust receiver pipe ( 2 1/4" O.D. , 2 " I.D. , gen pipe slides into it ) some time ago , now I have exhaust leaking into the coach . The problem is obvious , and of my own making . I didn't look at the old pipe closely enough , missed the packing that is pushed into the bead , assumed that the bead was to keep pipe from pushing through the panel . I machined a steel " donut " , welded it onto the end of the new pipe and that was it , Voila ! exhaust leak . The blower then supercharges the fumes into the cabin . 
 Has anyone developed another way to do the exhaust system with the slide out generator ?  I thought perhaps a flexible pipe or steel braided hose , but probably inviting more problems reinventing the wheel ! That said , I am looking at machining another piece with an internal receiver groove for the packing . Alternatively I could order a tool for beading and go with original style .
Question , looking for a source for the packing , wonder if anyone can steer me ? I have a request at Newell parts , not sure they would still have such a thing , so I am looking at options . 
I have shot myself in the foot so many times it's a miracle I can still walk !!
Chris

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  Brake information

Posted by: EagleRyder
04-01-2021, 08:37 PM
Forum: General Repair
- Replies (2)

Hello guys. I just recently purchased a 1968 model 32' or 33' (can't remember specifically) Newell. I am seeking someone who knows this era of the great Newells. My first concern (and the only one to get it back to road worthiness) is the brakes. The model I have is built on a Ford dually frame with a 477 super duty engine in it. It has no brakes to speak of. The emergency brake is a system that is set up around the drive shaft and is supposed to, when applied, constrict a sort of strap on the drive shaft. But, my mechanic (and the friend who sold me the coach) thinks that someone left it on and drove it, because it is no longer tight enough to tighten down on the drive shaft. 
The second and most pressing brake issue is with the braking system itself. It has no pedal to speak of. The mechanic seems to think it is a hydroboost braking system, but I have trouble believing that because hydro brakes did not really hit main stream until a few years later and were mostly on diesels then. However, we know that the lines and wheel cylinders are all in working order, and that the master cylinder (or the reservoir at the very least) is by the steering column, because the linkage is visible there and that is where you fill with brake fluid at.
I hope there is someone here that can help point me in the right direction. Thanks!

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  Hello All!

Posted by: EagleRyder
04-01-2021, 08:15 PM
Forum: Please introduce yourself
- Replies (4)

Hello everybody! As of last week I am the proud owner of a 1968 33' Coach! I am excited to begin the restoration process!

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  Newell Furniture supplier

Posted by: Whitty10
04-01-2021, 06:48 PM
Forum: Interior Things
- Replies (3)

Hey Everyone,

Wanted to see if anyone knew of the company Newell uses for their interior furniture?  I’m thinking about replacing our sofa and wanted to go back w same company.

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  Tire shop punctured air brake canister

Posted by: Jesse
04-01-2021, 04:19 PM
Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
- Replies (3)

Just my luck, brought my rig down to GCR to have a whole new set of firestone fs400s  installed. When jacking up my rig on the rear passenger side, the jack "slipped" off the axel and simply demolished my air brake canister. Called Newell to get the part number for a replacement, however the replacement canister is for air drums not disc's, which I had to point out at GCR when they complained that the new part wasn't setting correctly. Anyone can confirm the proper part number for the passenger side drive axel air brake canister for a 2001 45 foot Newell? I think I've located a suitable replacement based off of shape and looks of the original but wanted to be safe. Just another... funny story, I guess- when it's done should be a really good price for these fs400s.... just saying!

Jesse White 2001 Newell 582

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  Colorado Hwy 50 road closures

Posted by: folivier
04-01-2021, 08:12 AM
Forum: Travel Logs
- No Replies

Just a reminder as people are starting to plan their summer travels in and through Colorado.  Hwy 50 between Gunnison and Montrose will have an ongoing project with daily closures for 2 years starting soon.  If you can it would be best to avoid Hwy 50 through this area.  See the below for more info.

https://www.us50info.com/

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  Cajun army knife

Posted by: folivier
03-31-2021, 03:30 PM
Forum: Tools
- Replies (1)

Gotta get me one.

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  Docking lights operation

Posted by: hbens
03-31-2021, 10:52 AM
Forum: Anything else
- Replies (3)

I have a 2001 #586 and I've read my user manual and there isn't any instruction on how the docking lights work.
I see there is a docking light switch on the dash. I toggled this and they did not light. I suspect you must be in reverse to have them come on but cannot find anything that tells me so. If they are inop I want to fix them before I go on my trip to NY this summer. 
What are the correct sequence of steps to get them to light?
Thank you,
Hank

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  Entry door dragging

Posted by: Richard
03-31-2021, 07:58 AM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (4)

This is true confession time. The entry door on our coach has ALWAYS dragged a bit when opening and closing. I just learned to bump it with my knee when opening. It never got very high on my “fix” list.

@"Lee Dove" got me thinking I need to fix that. I recently visited with @"bikestuff" , and his door opens and shuts like a vault door. 

So, I got door envy. 

My door was not scuffing on the sides but rather the bottom of the door was dragging on the stainless steel door sill that Newell used for ever. Since the rivets holding the sill down had sheared I suspected something was going on. I removed the sill, and like most things Newell, it is a jigsaw puzzle to remove. I found the steel under the sill had rusted a bit, just enough to scale and flake. But the scaling raised the door sill a bit. Wirebrushed and painted the steel, reinstalled the sill. No more scuffing. 

But wait, the door has always been a bit cocked, in that the top sticks our about 1/4 inch when the bottom is flush. Rhonda doesn’t like to slam the door to get the top deadbolt to lock. Ok, what to do about this? The hinge has 29 screws on each side, and I figured it I could slot the holes in the hinge I could pivot the door to align it. A carbide milling bit on a Dremel works, just wear gloves and eye protection because it generates a million SS splinters. I milled the top half of the holes in one direction and the bottom half in the other while leaving the very center hole alone. That way I could just pivot the door slightly on the hinge. After realigning the door, and tightening down the screws, I put a few rivets in the top and bottom to prevent the door from moving in the enlarged holes. Ok, maybe more than a few. 

Now it just goes CLUNK!!  Rhonda is going to skin me for not doing this a long time ago.

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  Broke down in Tulsa Town

Posted by: Nichol_Bus
03-30-2021, 08:44 PM
Forum: Help, I need help ASAP
- Replies (4)

Hi, I am broken down in Tulsa. I cooked my motor and now have antifreeze in my oil Pan suggesting a blown head gasket or cracked manifold etc. If you know of a good Detroit 2-stroke mechanic or shop near Tulsa it would be a huge help. I was given the name of Dennis Hodges but he said he is to old and busy with oil field repairs. He did refer me to Fleet Service of Tulsa. If you have any advice or experience please reach out. Thanks, Eric Nichols 317-727-1970
Or [email protected]

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