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Lets talk windshields
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SCS A/C and air compresso...
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Buying a 1994 8v92 Newell...
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Compressor
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SCS 2702 basement air reb...
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Vintage newell coach
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HWH Touch Panel Problems
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08-06-2026, 08:28 PM
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allison ht741 wont go int...
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08-06-2026, 06:00 PM
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Experiences with Newell S...
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Generator slide stuck clo...
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I have the basement SCS air conditioners driven by the PSG thermostats. In certain climate and sun load situations, the AC units will short cycle. Meaning they come on briefly, shut off quickly as in under a minute, and a minute later this behavior repeats This is VERY VERY bad for the compressors. It forces the compressor to start against a high head pressure.
I investigated all manner of fixes and solutions. I looked for flaws and shorts in the control boards. I insulated behind the tstat. I checked voltage to the tstat. I built boxes around the tstat that helped but did not gain approval of interior consultant. I mounted a small fan to blow on the tstat, which helped but again was nixed by the aesthetics committee. I did observe the root cause to be the actual temp on the tstat as displayed was changing rapidly downward by a few degrees anytime the AC came on. This was happening on both the front and bedroom units. A replacement tstat of another brand did not help.
In house based units, there is a common and easily obtained "delay on break" module that is inserted between the tstat and the outside unit that prevents this from happening. Once AC is called for, it keeps it on for a predetermined and adjustable time, before it allows the unit to turn off. The problem is those delay on break modules work on 24VAC. Our tstats are 12 VDC. Trust me, the 24 VAC delay on break modules do not work on 12 VDC. If you want two, I can fix you up.
I was on the verger of using an Arduino micro computer to build my own thermostat. But I found this https://www.amazon.com/Multifunction-Mod...18DC&psc=1
What is this? It is a four channel, since you have four AC control wires out of the tstat, highly programmable timer module. I have set it up to run the fans and compressors for at least five minutes any time they are activated by the thermostat. I installed it in the cavity behind the tstat. It does not replace the thermostat or the SCS control board, instead it is placed between them.
If you decide to participate in this malarkey, there are a few things you should note. One, the instructions are translated from Chinese into Chinglish. It took me days to figger out how to program the thing. I will include a link on how to program it. Follow the instructions to a T, or proceded at your peril. https://docs.google.com/document/d/11ZS5...sp=sharing
The next thing to note if you look at the back of the board picture.
Is that I soldered some small wire from the 12V input terminal to the center runs on the relays to minimize external wiring. EXCEPT, you can generate an unwanted situation with the two speed fan when using a delay on break logic. If the lo speed is programmed to run for five minutes after it loses the signal from the tstat, AND the tstat ramps from 1 compressor to 2 compressors which automatically turns on the high speed fan, then the fan motor will be getting voltage to both sets of windings. NOT GOOD. The solution is to wire the 12V hot from the Normally Closed side of the HI Speed relay to the center post of the Lo Speed relay. That way, IF the high speed fan comes on, the power to the low speed is interuppted
Here is the high technology test session under way.
On a recent trip my engine fan failed to come on as needed
I disconnected the control and fan came up to speed
Guess I need to replace the control unit. As my brain remembers
Someone posted a thread about this problem...but I can’t find.
Info needed ... where did they find the part...
I'm trying to find out if anyone knows what and where I can find a pinion shaft for my 1982 newell.
I am a 1000 miles away from it hoping to find one then go fix it....
Thank you in advance
Dan 352-566-2168 txt please
My battery compartment door will not open. The handle does not pull up enough to actuate the wires to open the side locks. I have the key to unlock the door manually. It turns normally but the handle still only comes up halfway. The electric lock sounds like it is working. Any ideas?????
I can't figure this one out. When my supply air pressure gets down to 80lbs the compressor turns on like it is supposed to but only runs for about 10 seconds then shuts off. I can hear and feel the contactor and the pressure switch working. In about 10 minutes it repeats that same cycle.
The way I think it is supposed to work is when it gets down to 80lbs the compressor is supposed to come on and run until it gets up to 100lbs and then shuts off. Not turning back on until it get's down to 80lbs again.
I have replaced the pressure switch, check valves and relief valves but I don't know what else to try.
Any ideas?
Hey Everyone, was at Newell today having some maintenance being performed on my Newell and got to see a freshly built/painted frame. Thought it was interesting seeing it bare and before anything added so wanted to pass along here as well.
Pics
Adam Willis gets together with Andrew Steele to show off Adam's brand new Newell.
https://youtu.be/c6rtsytNRuI
The speedometer quit and the po. changed it with a new one and now it registers about ten percent of the speed were traveling based on the gps . Where is the pickup coil located trans or axle? and where could I get one?
We had an incident the other day where my locking pin holding my BlueOx system failed. Somehow the lock came off (and yes, I had previously checked it) as I was pulling away from fuel pumps. Going slowing and turning in the parking lot I heard a honk and quickly checked my rear camera. Shocked when I saw the whole system unhooked. Stopped and my car drifted into the coach. Damage to the p/s corner of the rear fiberglass cap as well as the d/s front corner of my Jeep. Would appreciate suggestions on where to get the coach repaired.
Thanks,
Terry
i live in the boonies. no cabletv, there is phone but my dsl before i switched was in the 1-2mb
i have tried two different point to point wireless. the latest one is erratic. but useable. but speeds in peak times are 5mb give or take. i pay for 50.
many months ago i signed up for starlink several months ago they said it would be avail in my area by the end of 2021. i paid my 99 dollar deposit and assumed it would be later this year. several weeks ago they said pay the other 480 bucks and it is coming my way. i did and it did. it came yesterday. bad timing....i had a knee replaced 3 weeks ago and am still not very mobile. but with the help of darlene and a friend we did a temp install to try it out. btw, i am a very connected home with nearly 40 devices using the interweb
they have an app on your phone to help pick a spot. so we did. and it comes with a tripod that sets on the ground and the dish is a foot or so off the ground.
here are some results this morning. more to follow as i am headed off to PT
there is an app on the phone that gives reliability. up time, obstruction time, down time etc. later today when it has had enough time to gather data i will post it. btw, i watched streaming shows with no pauses last nite. that doesnt happen with my point to point.
topology is....for the first test (140 d 40 up)
laptop to ubiquity on ceiling in family room
ubiquity to 16 port switch in garage by network panel (i just installed the switch)
switch to starlink router aux port (has one 1gb port)
topology is for the other one (240d and 17u)
is laptop direct connect to wifi of the starlink router. still all the other stuff connected to switch.
later today i will try a cable directly from my laptop to the aux port of the starlink router.
tom

