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Great park just North of Moab, UT - Archview RV Park. Large spaces for the 45 footers.

I have a Link 2000 interface.  I would like to know if I should leave the "charge" setting on all the time whether on shore power or on the road, or running generator.  When I bought the coach, the "charge" was on.  I also have been leaving the "inverter" setting turned on.  The owner's manual for me just is not very clear on that.

Also, just noticed my shore power indicator on the dash went out.  I know from my guages in the overhead that power is coming in.  Before I pull the dash down, any suggestions on the problem, other than maybe wiring at the connection or bad bulb?  If it is the bulb, would Newell be the best source for a replacement?

Thanks on advance!

Gurus,

I upgraded to the Directv sat right after I got the coach 10 years ago.   The antenna is a Winegard SK-3005.  It has been mostly trouble free....until a couple of years ago.

First Directv changed their system and I had to upgrade by adding a SWM8 box to the roof.   That put me back in business...but it has about a dozen additional cable connections.   

Now...I am broken again.  Directv is absolutely no help.  (They want to know my address so they can send a gorilla out to “adjust my antenna”.   

I will call Winegard tomorrow...but expect that I will get a script reader.

I have not been on roof to check the cables...but will also do tomorrow.

So here is my question....

Is it time to dump the satellite?   Has anyone figured out a cool way to stream video using cellular service?  Of course the WiFi that you get in campgrounds is universally terrible...so cellular is only option...right?

Ps.  I suspect that I have a bad LNB but am on the road and have no way to receive one.

So...what are you guys using these days?

Cheers,
Bill

Does anyone know what is involved in removing the fixed portion of the drivers side window?  It's a Storm-tite brand window.  Thepane you look through to see the mirror has lost it's seal and is full of condensation.  I was thinking about getting a "David Root" DIY kit and fixing it myself.

Some of you know that I homebrew. Since moving to Florida, my brews have suffered from the water quality in Florida. I usually buy distilled now, and add back calcium/magnesium and a bit of phosphoric acid to make it useable for brewing. 

Montana has the best beer in the country by far, and it’s because of their water.

So before we leave Montana tomorrow, I am filling the fresh water tank with that Montana gold and smuggling it back to Florida. 

Don’t worry about contamination with it staying in the tank a month, it gets a rigorous boil as part of the brew process.

We have owned this coach for 10 years. It was purchased in Grand Rapids and driven to British Columbia, Canada where it is currently registered. The engine is the Detroit Diesel 6V92 with about 125,000 miles. The coach was completely refurbished in 2006, inside and out. We have also done upgrades to the plumbing, electrical and flooring. The coach has been 100% maintained, with all receipts available. She runs very well with no current mechanical issues.

Please contact me at [email protected] for price and any other details.                                                                            

I am looking at a 1995 Newell in the Macon, GA which appears to need quite a bit of work, but I need to get the full extent of what is going on. 

Is there anyone in the Macon, GA area which anyone knows who does inspections?

Thanks,
David

A walk through of the New Newell Cockpit.

https://youtu.be/bB_Px-bvBBg

My Sanden dash air compressor model number has been rubbed of by the clutch wire.  Does anyone happen to know the model number of the Detroit 60 Sanden compressor?    

If you have worked on a pneumatic Microphor very much, you already know that getting the sequencing valve to seal to the vacuum breaker valve is a tricky endeavor given the seals are small o rings and the alignment is controlled by plate that affixes to the back of the toilet wall with hidden wing nuts. It’s a terrible design, and it frustrates me anytime I have to work on the toilet. 

We are in NO WHERE Montana, and that connection started gushing. Did I say gushing? The short nipple that screws into the sequencing valve split. It too is a poor execution of injection molding. The hex that is molded into nipple to help tighten it, happens to have the hex corners align with the parting line in the mold. You don’t put stress initiators like corners in line with parting lines, it is designing in a failure point.  Arrrggggh. When that splits you will have a flood. Did I say gushing? 

Oh yeah, don’t even think about epoxy or goop or magic pixie dust. Nothing will stick to the nylon the part is made of. 

What to doo in no where Montana on a Friday evening? Couldn’t possibly get the part from Mulanney until sometime late next week. 

Here is the fix. You need one 1/2 male NPT by 3/4 hose barb elbow. This will be found at any farm supply store, commonly used on large spraying equipment. Also one piece of 3/4 tubing about 1.25 inches long, and two hose clamps. Screw the elbow into the sequencing valve where the old exit nipple was. Use the 3/4 tubing and hose clamps to replace the vacuum breaker. Yeah I know, I have removed the water gap required by code, but I am not too worried given the pressurized sequencing valve. I will replace when I get to civilization. After all, what to doo when the potty is inop?