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When I bought my coach, noticed boost was down, [about 18 psi max] so when I changed the air cleaner, looked at the compressor wheel and found several good nicks in the blades. Ordered a new higher flow one from ss60 and installed. Old exhaust pipe from turbo to muffler heat shield was in bad shape, so scrapped it, {I am still itching from the fiberglass!] Used 100 ft of 4 inch titanium heat wrap to replace it. Decided to get rid of the 55 gallon muffler, so bought a aero 5050 lx resonator and installed. Only problem is, it is a little longer than the old muffler so will have to modify it to use the side exhaust or find a flattened out tip to go straight out the back. 
Big difference! Cannot really make a before and after comparison, but now boost pegs at 30 + at full throttle at 1500 rpm and stays there till next shift.  Very happy with new power. Have to practice judicious use of the jake, as it has quite a bark at high rpm.
Only one change that bothers me, at 70 mph on the flats, 95 f. ambient, cac temp out was about 125 to 130 f., now it seem to run about 140 to 150. This seem high to me. Anyone seeing similar temps? or know where to get 5 inch to flattened out 4 by 6, or something close, exhaust tip?
Thanks,  Jim

Hello all and Happy Independence Day !!

Our new to us, 2000 Newell #551 is in need of some repairs.
Would appreciate some feedback and answers. Thanks in advance.

The previous owner did not have the key that locks the bay doors that open with a push latch. Any way to get a key or key code from Newell or is there an alternate way to do it ? I believe the same key would arm the alarm on the passenger side second door and open the small door on the upper left rear corner above the radiator (currently locked)...need to find a solution.

Anybody have experience with Apex AGM 8D batteries ?

Mid bath sink is pitted and discolored really bad- anyway to clean that gold or have to change it ?

Losing the bedroom slide seal as the air in the coach is depleted and the 110V compressor is not turned on. Is there a check valve that may be defective or the electrovalve is supposed to keep things inflated.....maybe the seal is leaking ?

More later...small bites....
Thank you

Newell has a beautiful 2016 #1535 for sale. This is a new listing at $1,449,000. It is a mid-entry coach, bath and a half, with custom limestone flooring in the front and hardwood flooring in the bedroom. Very interesting couch with a pull out extension to make it an L sofa. 

Just purchased a replacement thermostat for the up front a/c from the mother ship. I think I would like to get the old one repaired, so I would have a spare. I read a post some where on where they sent the old one and had it repaired, but I can't find the thread. Does anyone have info on where to send it and cost. My old one was stuck on and wouldn't shut off when it reached the set temp. My wife thinks 55 degrees is to cold to sleep by.

Hoping that someone has had the same problem and got it figured out.
I am about to leave newell after they had tried to fix the problem for a day and a half. 
My front ac unit was only putting out 61 degree air but would run.
Newell determined that I needed a new compressor so went ahead with that which also included a new drier and capacitor.
So after the new install of compressor the unit started and got cold but within a few minutes the fan would quit then the compressor would overheat and shut down. So went inside to the electrical box by the condenser and found a capacitor that looked like it blew up, the top had pushed up and oil had leaked out, so that was replaced and same problem exist.
Then the fellow checked out the thermostat and that checked out ok. He was not very familiar with all the stuff inside the box so after a day and a half and now Newell has closed for the 4th we decided to call it quits. We don't want to hang around for 5 days 
and need to get back to our trip. figuring we were going to get a large bill for basically nothing we were told there was no charge.
We were happy with that but we now have no ac on the front of the unit. 
Remember the AC unit was working ok but blowing only blowing 60 degree and now the problem is the fan on the compressor unit comes on for a few minutes then shuts off which allows the compressor to over heat and shut down.

Any help would be appreciated. Happy fourth.

Brad

http://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/Camping-...-118741877

$24,995

https://www.rvonline.com/single-ad.asp?Recnumber=67478

Rear lounge, Aqua Hot has been installed, new counter tops, rear ceiling out to fix leak. $55,000

Gang,

I have a microphor toilet which had the original toilet seat that came with it.  Over the years, the seat has provided a loyal and valuable service.  Recently, it has begun to be shimmy and squirmy.  I knew the end was near.  But today, one of the hinges gave up completely.  Time for a new seat.

I did a quick measurement and determined that (thank goodness), the holes where a standard dimension (5.5") and the length of the bowl was also standard (18.5").  So that meant that I could buy an aftermarket seat.  Off to Home Depot, I went.  I found a color and shape that looked like a good match and headed home.

My first job in getting the new seat fitted was removing the old seat and bolts.  This turned out to take a trick.  But first a little background.  The bolts that hold the seat on are accessible from inside the tank part.   They are fairly easy to reach, but a real bear to get a wrench on.  The manual says to mount the seat before you install the toilet to the floor.  I made attempts with open and closed end wrenches, pliers and even vice grips but I could not get any of them to grab.

Warning:  The next part is scary and should be undertaken with extreme care.  Any sort of prying on the bolts will chip or crack the bowl and that is a big problem, so be careful!

I sat down and thought about the problem.  I can't get a good grip on the nut, but can get a screwdriver on the nut (top) end.  It was clear that the bolt was really rusty and even if I got a good grip, I am not sure that I will be able to unscrew the nut from the bolt.  I decided that the right way to tackle the problem is to cut the bolt with a hacksaw.  (Keep reading...this gets good!)  To get to the shaft of the bolt so I could cut it, I needed to remove the plastic hinge that holds the seat.  One hinge was already broken away from the seat, so I carefully twisted the seat and broke the other hinge.  Now the seat was free but the hinges were still held on by the bolt. 

HERE IS THE TRICK:  I used diagonal cutters to nibble away at the hinge until I was able to remove the plastic part.  Once that happened, there was still a little clear plastic thingy under the bolt.  When I tore that loose the bolt fell through the hole!  Bingo, exactly what I needed!  No need to cut the bolt!!!

The new seat went on without a hitch.  The brand is Bemis (Bone color) in an "Elongated"  shape.  It has the anti-slam feature and is easily removable for cleaning.  The shape is not absolutely perfect, but I am pretty sure no-one will notice.

Anyway, I thought I would post here in case anyone finds themselves faced with rusty bolts and a broken toilet seat.  Attached pictures should help in understanding text.

Cheers,
bill

My donor bus has a wheel chair lift that I currently have no use for. I will hopefully have it (the donor bus) to Missouri in the next few weeks. If anyone is interested in a wheel chair lift for their coach, I will take pictures and measurements. It's out of a 2000 Orion transit bus, but it appears that the hydraulics are new (newer than the bus). We'll have to negotiate with Mike about the cost to remove everything and shipping, but I'm not looking at getting anything in return but a thank you!

Here is a before and after of my front cap storage bay. This took me abut a day and a half.  Overall, it turned out nice.