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    After searching for more than a year I finally got a truck. Now I'm deciding if I should see if I can flat tow it.. Here it is.

Curious - any Gurus going to be @ OshKosh WI this week?

I have never set camped so managing my batteries when not plugged in is new to me. I am at my parents place in the hills. If I have nothing else on except my outside Dometic fridge/freezer on the freezer mode will it draw my batteries down too far overnight?  I realize there are probably a couple other small draws here and there like the clocks that don't turn off but there are no lights or anything running. 

Guys last year my cruise went out suddenly. However, I could hold the set switch and at times it would surge like it was engaging. Not always just occasionally. Later my mechanic checked everything and found a wire loose. He soldered it and it worked. So when it surged I think it was making a momentary connection. 

Fast forward to today and I just had it go out again. Same thing as it surges once is a while. So where do I find said brake air switch to see if it broke loose by chance?  My mechanic was gone but the service manager read these notes to me. I am stoppping for the evening in a couple hours and would like to find this rascal and hope that is the issue. We just started this trip and driving all the way to Yellowstone without cruise will royally suck. 

Oh the service manager said it may be under the dash somewhere but he did not know.

Guru's

When I park my coach for a few days the passenger side is noticeably lower than the driver side if I don't have it plugged in and the compressor running. It seems to be on the front and rear on that side. I am camping all next week and so will have some time and access to snoop for leaks. Wondering if with this description you would have any suggestions for why and entire side would lose air like this. I am not an expert in air systems but are the front and rear systems using separate supply tanks as well as their own 6 pack of control valves?

I will snoop all of the fittings that I can access, but looking for ideas of why one side would do this that might point me to the source quicker. 

Thanks. 

hi all,

on my last trip, my prosine inverter would overheat and shutdown.  only after drawing the batteries down and then charging them at a high rate.  

the fans on the unit are not hardly running and if i put a small box fan in front of it it cools down and works fine.  

i have yet to troubleshoot it by taking it apart, but i know there are 3 small 80mmx80mmx25mm 12v 3000 rpm 40cfm computer fans in there.  

easily gotten for 5-10 bucks each.  

has anyone had a similar problem?

thanks

tom

I am at the Mountain View RV park in Creede and the temp. this morning was 32 degrees.  Took the jeep over the Engineer Pass out of Lake City and back to Lake City on the Cinnamon Pass Tues.  7 hours and enjoyed every minute of it. Could hardly tell what color the jeep was when got back to the park.  Life is good.

We are in Armitage Park, a county park on the edge of Eugene. Nice pull through site with good water and power. I didn't expect much from a county park, but I was wrong. This is a nice stop if you are traveling I-5.

I was lucky in that the rear air bag failed in a campground. The failure was caused by fluid leaking from the rear slide hoses onto the front of the two rear air bags in the driver side rear wheel well. The rubber in the bag was softened by the ATF and the bag simply delaminated. 

The coach sits flat on the wheels when this happens. Duh. 

Newell overnighted a bag at a respectable price. 

Here are a few tricks I learned and used in the removal and replacement. I had to use both of my 20 ton bottle jacks under the radius arm mount in order to lift the coach. Of course, I chocked the coach with wooden cribbing. As Steve posted in the other thread about rear bags, there are two studs on top, and one on bottom. A 3/4 wrench removed those easily. And the connection to the air fitting was handled with a big adjustable wrench. The removal process went south at this point. There is a 45 degree angle fitting on top of the bag that would not turn, and the bag will not come out of hole without removing the fitting. I could only get a 1 1/2 wrench on the fitting at two angles, neither of which would give me any leverage way up in the frame rail where the fitting is located. It is really tight up in there working around the differential and hydraulic fan cooler. 

I eventually cut it off with a side grinder and cutting wheel. Ugly, but effective. 

Then while at the local hydraulic place getting a replacement fitting, which by the way is  45 degree 1"NPT by 1" JIC (16), I had a eureka moment. The place had a big selection of crow's feet wrenches. This is the point of the post. The crows feet allow many different angles of approach when used with a flex head breaker bar. It was a piece of cake tightening the new fitting into the air bag, and tightening the air line connection using the crows feet. One of those wrenches in the right size would have saved me four or more hours of vocabulary creativity enhancement. 

So check the wheel well if you have a two slide HWH coach to make sure lines aren't leaking on the air bag. The failure would have been nasty on the road. And, if you take replacement of the air bags on yourself, think about getting a few crow's feet to fit the air line fittings.

Now, I have to figure out how to access the hose where it attaches to the cylinder. I know, under the bed, but it's under the part of the bed that doesn't lift.  

The new owner of my 98 sent a few pictures of the interior remodel he had done at Motorhomes of Texas.  I thought the front floor would be of interest to those of you who want to get rid of carpet.  Or at least most of the carpet.