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Recently, one of the hoses to the rear slide developed a leak. The leak caused the air bag to fail. The air bag was replaced in a different thread. My first thought was to crimp a new end on the leaking hose. Research suggested this would not be a long term fix. In fact when I got the hoses out, I discovered the leaking end had already been refitted once with a new fitting. 

As I dove into the hose replacement, I tried to gain access to the hose fittings via the bedroom. After taking the bed apart, both potties out, removing the windshield, radiator, transmission, and the generator it was clear that would not work. The first two calls to the mothership assured me there was access through the bedroom. The bedroom support mechanism is an aluminum structure that is affixed to the slide out. Under the support structure, the hydraulic cylinder is COMPLETELY enclosed in a square steel tube. The hoses exit from the square steel tube on the bottom and then through the bedroom floor into the wheelwell. There is about 3/8 inch between the bottom of the steel tube and the floor. I could only see the hoses using a flashlight and a mirror. 

I was stuck. 

I lay awake thinking about using a grinder and cutting holes in both the aluminum and steel tubes. I still didn't know how I would get the hoses through the opening. 

I called again and spoke to a tech who explained it all. Access is neither through the bedroom nor the bottom of the coach. You disconnect the cylinder from the steel square tube via two bolts under the bed, disconnect via one bolt on the bottom of the slide out, contract the cylinder, disconnect the hoses, and pull it out the channel from outside. I learned later all of this is explained on the HWH site  http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml19524.pdf

Before you get started deflate the seal, and looking in the channel you will see a piece of foam surrounding the ram. At the bottom of that foam is a 3/8 nut. Remove it, grab the black plastic base and slide it out. You don't have to tear it into ten pieces to remove it. He says, after the fact. 

I felt like a doofus, having been on the site for days but not finding this page. 

Let me add a couple of things that would have made this gone smoother. First. Getting the hoses down the square tube, turning 90 degrees and exiting through the wheel well is not fun. I had tied rope to the old hoses before I pulled out the cylinder. If I were doing this again, I would thread some cable or rope through a 1/4 JIS flare coupling, screw one each to each old hose and pull out with the cylinder. Th purpose of using the flare is that the rope or cable will be right in the center of the hose end, and it's tapered. 

I had rope but even with tying and taping it die not want to turn the angle  with the fitting. 

Second, the hoses are 1/8 Parker 540N. You won't find 1/8 hyd hose in smaller towns. I took a chance and had 1/4 hoses made at Napa. The hose will go through the hole OK, BUT the 1/4 hose ends are far larger than the the 1/8 ones. It was a real bear.

In hindsight, using 1/8 hose, and using the flare coupling would have made this a easier job. 

Loaned coach to a friend for 10 days. Decided last minute to go get boat in Branson 3 hours away spend night drive back in morn.. All hotels are full, had to drive to Springfield to get a room.   Note to self don't loan coach out. Hotels suck!

47' of ULTRA-CUSTOM NEWELL COACH

QUAD-SLIDE Front entry floorplan  2007 coach#796






Living & Electronic Systems include: Keyless entry, VIP Smart Wheel with tilt and telescope adjustments,Cobra CB Radio, Beltronics Radar Detector,Visteon In-Dash Tuner withXM, Weldex Camera Monitor, KVH Inmotion sat, Powered HD Satellite Antenna, (2) HD  TVs, Pioneer & Marantz Home Theater Rec. Surround Sound Speakers w/powered Sub-woofer,  Samsung BluRay Player,  15 KW Power Tech Generator, Recaro Leather driver & Co-pilot Seat w/massage, Silverleaf Monitoring, SmartTire Monitoring, Valid slides and auto-leveling system, (4) Roof A/C, Kuppersbusch cooktop,SubZero  Draw type Refer/Freezer, Sharp Convection Micro/oven, Garbage Disposal, Wine cooler, Fargot washer/dryer, AquaHot Diesel & Electric Heating, Flush mount windows,Silhouette Power Day/Night Shades, Leather  Sofa, Ekornes Recliner,dinning table with Pivotal Suspension Seating for four (4), Coffee table,  Corian Countertops, Heated Granite & Custom Inlaid Carpet Flooring, King size (magic) separating bed,drop down HD TV in Master Suite, Sky Light, In-Mirror TV, Safe, located in Master Steam Shower Bath, MACH 3 Headhunter fresh water pump, 3 Outback Inverters,
POWER:
 625HP Caterpillar  (pre-emission engine)with ZF Transmission, Steering Tag Axle, Sliding storage beds, Just a notch over 40,000 miles  Great coach! . Must See!! More information available upon request.

SAVE $100K NOW! just say you saw it on Newell Gurus, call Ronnie @ 713-705-3131 $425k  Currently Kept Inside in Reno, NV

http://www.newellcoach.com/newell-coaches/coach-1285/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-Newell-Bus-...1393152997

Center Island King Bed with TV in footboard

well I loaned my coach to one of my good friends for 10 days. Spent this evening getting him up to speed.. Could be a long 10 days of worry.

We were returning from a outing two weeks ago. About 10 miles from home I noticed a change in the 'tone' of engine. Nothing big - just different. All gauges were normal w/no change for the balance of the drive. 

Once parked, left the engine running - what I found the exhaust pipe @ the flex pipe had broken just ahead of the muffler and rotated from a 3 o'clock to a 5 o'clock position. So the exhaust from the turbo was basically blowing on the lower portion of engine compartment - wires, hoses & whatever else was there. 

There was no damage to anything ( other than the broken 5" flex pipe ) - however, had we not been close to home and shut down right away - it wouldn't have been pretty. At the least, melted wires or hoses....

I said all of that to say this, on our coach the exhaust flex pipe is wrapped with a hard wrap so you 
-cannot- inspect the flex coupling. This for me has turned it into a time issue - after xx years that flex coupling -HAS- to be changed. Plus, doesn't look like this will even break a $50 bill. 

I'm working on a 8V92 so, YMMV.

Marc

Spied in Cascade Locks OR
           

Just want to share my recent experience with tank level sensors.   My vintage uses penetrations through the plastic tank walls at the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and full points.  There is also a common penetration at the 1/4 level.  That makes for a total of 5 sensors per tank, and 10 sensors per coach.

The common sensor for my potable tank started leaking on my most recent trip. I was also experiencing poor operation of the sensors on both tanks.  That was new as the potable tank usually gave a good and reliable reading.

The common sensor for potable is in a difficult location directly behind the Mach5 water pump with very little room to even see in there.  It took my flexible camera and display to even find where the leak was coming from.  As I felt around with my hand back there, oh no, the sensor just fell out and a stream of water flooded the bay.   I opened the tank drain and let the rest directly to the ground until it reached the 1/4 level and stopped.  Since I was at the factory at the time I inquired about replacement sensors.  My service advisor thought they were in stock and my visit to parts did not go well.  With Creslie in tow the next time, we determined that Newell no longer stocks these sensors.  I taped over my hole and went home.

I decided to try removing the high level sensor figuring if I screwed it up it would not matter much since it was at the top of the tank.
Eventually I removed 9 of them.  Some can be pulled out with vise grips, other don't want to come out at all.  For those I ran a nylon web strap through the jaws of the vise grips, wrapped the web around my waist, looked around to be sure no one was watching in case I fell on my butt, and pulled for all I was worth.  That got them out!

In this post I will show pictures of the corroded sensor as well as the others.  They are all in some state of deterioration including being pretty well covered in mineral deposits.  

The thickness of the tank wall and the diameter of the hole do not fall in the range of sizes that grommets are available for.  Or at least that is what I decided after much searching.  In the end I made my own sensors that seem to be working very well. Now tank levels in both tanks work perfectly.  A few tips if you plan to make yours too.  I used #6 hardware as #8 ( what was there ) was just a bit too big since I had to put a nut on the inside of the tank.  My rubber plug just matches exactly the hole diameter.  I had to drill a hole down its center to accept the 2" #6 SS screw.  That is a bit tricky as the rubber wants to expand and the hole you get is smaller than you expected.  But soon I learned what size bit to use and was turning out my ten new sensors.

I used LocTite on the nut and when dry pushed in the sensor, centering the plug and have about 1/8" beyond flush and each side.  A few turns of the outside nut and it expands the plug and it is leak tight.

I removed the water pump and water filters to make access easier, but was never able to get access to the high level sensor in the waste tank.

Some picture attached.   Russ

[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]     Driving on I90 West from Spearfish, SD to Billings, MT. Towing 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. Within 10 minutes of starting out the coach began to climb in temperature above the 190 red mark to almost 210 (see attached). The engine oil did also heat up over the red mark for a few minutes then settled down.  I don't know who marked this gauge this way. Now the grades were not steep but were gentle hills. We hit a couple 6 percent but that was later in the day.  We were averaging about a 62 MPH and running about 1,600 RPM.  I got worried the heat would damage the engine so we pulled over and disconnected the Jeep. Drove another 60 miles and the engine cooled down to about 185 on the gauge. I also had installed a digi panel gauge to more closely monitor temps. The digi is consistently 15 degrees cooler than the gauge. It also measures transmission temp. The regular gauge showed that at 210 - 220 while digi said a steady 175.[/color]



[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]So first question is can these old gauges go bad? Trying to decide which one I should trust more. [/color]



[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]Next question is what temp should I try not to exceed on the engine or is there a point where you say if you exceed this temp for X time stop and let the engine cool. When I stopped the engine it cooled right down and went over 190 on the old gauge again just a couple of times on big hills after we unhitched the jeep and drove it. I kicked the speed up as well to 65 with 1,800 RPM. Grade of road was the same and maybe even hillier. I will hook the Jeep up again tomorrow and try again. I don't think I missed anything in that. We have towed it before as well as a car trailer with no issues. The temp may spike on a hill but settles down again. Oh and I am topped off on radiator fluid so that's not an issue. [/color]



[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]Lastly on dead flat roads at 65mph with not much wind the turbo never went below 5-7 PSI. going over simple bridge overpasses it would go to 15 psi. I have never watched this before. I think I have power but wonder if I should change fuel filters just the same. If she is beginning to clog in the filters will that make the turbo run more and thus get hot?[/color]