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Near the end of my recent three month 9,000 mile adventure my generator started shutting down on its own. The stuff I could see on the dash all looked good - temperatures and pressures. Well there is always the possibility of fuel issues so first shot in the dark would be both the fuel/water separator, and the fuel filter. Man that separator was expensive to purchase on the road. I replaced them and followed the directions for priming. Thank you Newell for the priming switch right there at the filters.

I was almost happy when they would not prime. Now I had a plausible reason for the shutdowns. I emailed Tom for a quick hint on the fuel pump I might need, but his generator is totally different from mine - why aren't any two of these Newells alike - but I digress.

I got a part number from the fuel pump on my Kholer/Yanmar generator as the pump was by Carter. I was unable to match that older part number exactly, but after much reading and research I decided it now cross to a P4389. I placed an order with Jegs and was happy to see free shipping, and then sad to see like $12 in handling fees

When the pump arrived it appeared to be an exact replacement to me and once installed I cracked the bleed screen on the filter housing and turned the switch. Jumped for joy when the fuel came squirting out at me. All is well for now. Picture of original pump is attached.

You all know the sound - when the starter grunts and then the solenoid chatters. Most occasions it is time to get a new battery for the car/truck.
Well, when you have 6 fully charged 8D batteries in parallel - what's a guy to do?
Fortunately for me this kind of thing is right down my narrow area of expertise, but I wanted to pass along the solution for my particular situation.

I first wanted to determine where the voltage was being lost on its way from the house batteries to the generator starter. Chances are always good it is on one or the other legs of the DC circuit. Using my voltmeter and a long wire back to the house batteries I quickly determined my voltage loss ( over 6 volts while trying to crank ) was on the negative side of the circuit. Just for grins I also measured the drop on the positive side and it was less than 2 volts - just fine. I then started moving the location of the long wire downstream of each place that might be the problem. First to the other side of the shunt - same result. Then to the downstream side of the coach battery switch - yes it's on the negative side of the batteries - no joy there either. Then to the chassis point in the battery compartment and same readings. So, all was well back there.
Now Newell could not do what most vehicle manufactures do to get power to a starter - they use the structure of the vehicle and just bolt the starter to the motor and connect the motor to the frame with a flexible braided strap. But in my Newell, the generator is on rollers and cannot be bolted to the frame of the coach. So, Newell ran a black flexible cable between the generator's block and connected that cable to the floor just beside the generator's rails. Well, that is what it looks like from above. Actually the floor of the generator enclosure is not really a good conductor with its thin aluminum plate and underlying plywood. Looking further one finds there is a bolt that penetrates clear through the floor and on through the frame of the coach. There is a nut that pulls that bolt tight to the frame, and then the cable, and then another nut to hold the cable tight. So the real connection that must carry all the starter current is right up front totally unprotected on the bottom of the coach. It is exposed to whatever you drive through. When I looked under there that bolt and connection looked none too good. I have attached a picture of the bolt.
I took it all apart and cleaned things up the best I could using a wire brush on the end of an electric drill. I added a washer to expand the area of electrical contact and put it all back together. Problem solved, at least for a while. Generator starts up easily now. Hope this helps someone in the future.

hi guys,

i know we have concluded that there are no new SCS thermostats for the basement airs we have.

one of the things about mine that i really dont like is that it only shows the setpoint temperature and not the room temp like a normal thermostat does.

mine look very similar to russ's that are on his 99 but do not function the same.

i am wondering if there isnt some magical combination of button pushing that allows you to program the thermostat. example....there is only 3 pushbuttons on mine. up, down and fan. so i started trying different combos of pushing them and holding. if i hold the up and down buttons down together for like 15 seconds and then let go, the display switches to centigrade. doing the same it switches back to F. so i wonder if there isnt some other combo of button pushing that lets me display room temp instead of setpoint temp.

any thoughts or do any of you have the manual for my thermostat?

thanks

tom

   

hi all,

i was reading on roger burkes forum about how you are supposed to have equal return air area as the heater vent grill itself. makes sense.

in looking at mine, i dont see where that is? the vents under the small table behind the passenger front seat doesnt appear to have them.

neither does the heater grill in the kickspace under kitchen counter or the one in the cabinet in the two bathrooms or the bedroom.

the two little ones at the ankles of the driver and passenger up front have a return grill on the side so there is one for each of them.

are they drawing their air from somewhere else? what am i missing?

i have not really used mine to keep warm so not sure how efficient it is but i have heard richard say his heats up really fast.

comments?

tom

After sitting stillfor 10 days, we leave Yellowstone tomorrow. Just wondering if switching on the engine preheat the night before would get S60 warm by morning. Temps have been in upper 40's low 50's at night.
Will this just suck down the heat created by my aqua-hot? I've only used the electric side and not the diesel.

I recently replaced my original living area thermostat with a new one supplied by Newell, and wired it according to their instructions. The A/C operates correctly, but when in heater mode, only the fan works, but no heat. Question: does the "diesel aqua-hot" switch above the range need to be on for the heater to work?

Garmin Dezl 760LMT 7-Inch Bluetooth Trucking GPS with Lifetime Maps & Traffic is scheduled for release December 31, 2012. It will be the first Garmin truck gps with a 7-inch screen. Anticipated price is $399.99. I am thinking about pre-ordering one.

For those of you who would like to see a larger Avatar in the header of your post, we have increased the max size of the displayed Avatars to 150x150. If you uploaded an Avatar earlier it was limited to 100x100. You are welcome to go to your User Control Panel and upload your avatar again in a larger size. After it is updated and saved, your posts will display the larger image.

Near I-69 and I 80-90 on the old Lincoln Highway. 30A hookup. Country location. Restaurant/Coffee shop on grounds.

We are currently stranded, with a broken air bag, in the Baltimore Ravens parking lot and could use any info on local/area service people. Any name/number would be useful. Thanks