• Front compressor running ...
  Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
  Last Post: hypoxia
  45 minutes ago
  » Replies: 7
  » Views: 130
• Detroit Series 60
  Forum: Engine and Transmission Monitoring Systems
  Last Post: Richard
  1 hour ago
  » Replies: 40
  » Views: 20,549
• Gast compressor
  Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
  Last Post: whited44
  3 hours ago
  » Replies: 3
  » Views: 64
• Who are the experts? I wa...
  Forum: General
  Last Post: tobflyin
  Yesterday, 12:06 PM
  » Replies: 3
  » Views: 243
• Coleman 2 Ton RVP6536 Ser...
  Forum: Replacement part information
  Last Post: rickj
  Yesterday, 11:09 AM
  » Replies: 0
  » Views: 42
• 1989 Newell on Auction
  Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
  Last Post: rickj
  Yesterday, 10:40 AM
  » Replies: 22
  » Views: 16,062
• East Coast 2025 No Rally ...
  Forum: Get Togethers
  Last Post: Fulltiming
  04-25-2025, 06:00 PM
  » Replies: 40
  » Views: 10,109
• alternator not working
  Forum: Electrical
  Last Post: Jack Houpe
  04-25-2025, 08:58 AM
  » Replies: 38
  » Views: 37,399
• Time for a change
  Forum: General
  Last Post: Jack Houpe
  04-25-2025, 05:41 AM
  » Replies: 3
  » Views: 242
• How I Connected Relays to...
  Forum: Air Conditioning
  Last Post: [email protected]
  04-24-2025, 02:35 PM
  » Replies: 75
  » Views: 73,040

• Forum posts:67,380
• Forum threads:8,014
• Members:3,840
• Latest member:dougw2007

Several months ago I noticed my dash gauge for engine oil pressue was pegged high. VMSpc/DDEC were getting a good reading so the project was not on the top of my list.

At that time Richard said:

"I popped the screw head off my sender during the engine work. I actually sourced a new one from NAPA. Sorry but I don't recall the part number.

It's located on the driver side of the block, at the front, at the top of the block.

Good luck reaching it without 8 ft arms.

I had the hatch open when I replaced mine."

Well the time to fix it has arrived. I knew the gauge was okay since I could ground the sense wire at the rear engine junction box and the gauge would zero. I crawled under and looked where Richard suggested, and was happy to see the sender with no wire attached. I felt around and found the convoluted sleeve and the wire within. I made up a small extension with a ring terminal and crimped it on. The knurled nut holding the old terminal was very difficult to get off, but finally it came loose and I hooked up the wire. I started the coach to verify the dash gauge worked now. It didn't! Rats! I removed the wire from the sensor and grounded it and the gauge zeroed, so the only thing left was the sensor. Now I don't believe the sensor failure and the wire breaking could have both happend in that short time. I am assuming when I turned so hard with the pliars to get the knurled nut of the sensor it may have turned inside the housing and broken the connection. Anyway I was faced with getting the old sender unit out. I got my 8 foot arm out, since I did not have access from above.... just kidding. I was able to get a 17mm open end wrench on the base of the sender, but could not put enough pressure way up there to even come close to turning it. I finally hit upon the idea of using a piece of pipe to push on the end of the wrench, and I broke it free
The gauge and sender are VDO. It appears when the resistance of the sender decreases, the needle on the gauge decreases its reading as well. Now to try and find the right sender. There are no other markings except VDO on the sender that I can see. I will use some resistors and try to determine what resistance makes the gauge real full scale - 80 psi. I hope with that much information I can find the correct sender. I'll try to remember to post back the results.

Howdy folks, worked my way over here thanks to Tuga and nice job on the site, it looks great. I'll visit often and if you need any battery help, keep me in mind.

howdy,

whenever it rains, i get a lot of water in the small bay in front of the drive wheel on the passenger side. when i was at steve and suzy's we looked to see if it was leaking from the mid bath sink above it, but it wasnt.

seems to be just when it rains. but it gets soaking wet in there.

anyone had anything similar? i may replace the gasket, but it appears ok.

very puzzling.

tom

I HATE oil spots on the driveway so you can imagine how thrilled I was to see a BIG LONG oil stain on the driveway several weeks ago under the Newell. I didn't notice it until after I moved the Newell to a nearby RV Park but it didn't look like it came from under the engine. It looked like it was near the rear wheels. Anyway, I bought it back home again a few days ago and, you guessed it, another BIG LONG oil stain on the driveway. This time I was able to confirm that it was coming from near the passenger side rear tire.

So I start looking for what could possibly be leaking and I find it. I opened the bay behind the tag axle and the compartment was floating in clean oil. I had (HAD is the operative word) a gallon plastic jug of Detroit Diesel 40 Wt oil in that bay with a battery charger, air compressor and a few other things. The plastic jug was wedged in and apparently got a small split in it and slowly leaked out the entire gallon of oil which then slowly dripped out of the bay onto the driveway. It hadn't leaked out at the RV park because I was able to level the coach. My driveway has enough slope that the front of the coach is lower and the oil in the rear bay found a way out at the front outside edge of the bay.

Mystery solved. Kitty Litter has helped reduce that magnitude of the stain but it is still there. Any ideas better than kitty litter or pressure washing the drive to get rid of the remainder of the oil stains? HINT: We are talking about two stains, each a foot wide and over 6 feet long.

After being convinced by Tom that my tires were covered by the Michelin Advantage program, (a benefit of being an FMCA member) I found a place and replaced all 8 tires with Michelin XZE2. To start I saved $170. from original price then if you figure that I saved on no sales tax here in NH the savings jumps to about $220 each. But, everything was going great till they went to the last two tires on the passenger side drive axle. The guy was taking the outside nuts off and SEVEN lugs broke off. It was obvious they had been over 85% cracked for some time as the surface was rusted.
Now what to do! They tried their pound on stud removed which just striped the shank. I called Newell and they said the only way was to weld a nut on the remaining stud. The fellows there would not weld on the coach but I said I would do the welding and noticed a small wire feeder with no wire. I convinced them to let me weld and they sent for some wire and new lugs (10). I was able after some trials to finally get the lugs off. I was welding and running the air wrench while they were taking care of others. We arrived at 9 am and left at 8:30 pm. Oh as I was double checking the air pressure I noticed that the inside stem valves were loose which led to having to take the tires off and break the bead and tighten properly then re mount and re Torque. The original torque was at 475 ft lbs Newell said it should be at 425 ft lbs so again they had to re torque. Oh they also found one of the inside stem valve extensions to be worn just about through from rubbing on the sheet metal piece which was part of a wheel balance add on. It looks like there may be a pin hole but I always kept an eye on the air pressure.
Between the worn extension and the cracked lugs disaster was at the door. We were blessed to have had the course of events happen as they did that led up to us being able to get new tires. AND the difference of a ride the new tires give is like day and night. I used to have to slow below the posted speed when going into a corner but not now. It's like riding on a cloud.
A BIG thanks to Tom and the Help at Newell.

We have Zip Dee Awnings on all of our windows on our 84, but do not have the large patio awning that covers most of the passenger side above those windows...like Clark's on our Guru web page here. I have called Zipp Dee and they have directed me to their measuring instructions. I imagine that the front arm will need to either go between the door and the awning on the most forward window or between that awning's most forward arm and the front tire and passenger window if that makes sense to you guys. Before I do this though I thought I would check with you all (my Newell family) for reassurance, tips and help (see attached PDF for Zipp Dee instructions and side view pic of my coach):

1. Do I find the center line of a structural rib by simply assuming it is a verticle rivot line?
2. It references an awning rail to measure against. I assume they are referencing an existing awning rail for coaches that are simply replacing an awning. Since I adding an awning then does that mean that i need to also find and but an awning rail? If so what purpose does this rail serve is it for drainage of water or condensation on the coach?
3. Then would you assume from these instructions that I am measuring from the center point of the bottom brackets to the top of where I will put my awning rail (see question #2 above) and Zipp Dee then subtracts that 51/2" clearence they require from that measurement..and it appears that measurement includes the contour of the coach.

Your advice and assistance is appreciated.

We want to put in a wood floor in our 84. My wife likes Bamboo. I have never installed a wood floor. So should we start this thread discussion with whether or not it is better to use the wood systems that lock together without nails, screws or glue......or should we use the standard pieces that do require being fastened down.

Has anyone any experience with this? I am also wondering what you do around odd areas like the stairwell which on ours has a rich and gaudy shag all over it and also up front where the floor slopes up as it passes the captains chairs.

I know I am asking lot of questions and help, we are in Montana now for over 3 months , we spend some time in Saint Regis then Red Lodge and now month in Ennis right by Madison river ( Worlds fly fishing capitol )
I want to use my air compresor from time to time to clean, blow some dusts here and there and I have the hose but not sure what nozzle is the right one? there is one bellow the filter and one below the big electric box ( I have two of them ) in the engine bay.
I have attached two images to show


Best regards,
Les Korcala

Newell 2001 2 slides #582        

Okay,
We have Central vacum system and can not find the place where you empty it?
I located the blue box in the small bay area right next to Inverter but can not find anything to empty ?

Thanks ,
Les Korcala
Newell 2001 2 slides #582

Hello,
would love to find out about the right coolant used in Newell ( name , brand etc)

I have plastic tube in the back by the recovery tank and its shows low level !

That plastic tube is broken at the top , so i just picked up very hard plastic hose in same diameter and slipped in to rubber hose.
Also , wanted to find out if that tube is top off at the top ? since mine is broken ( last 2' at the top ) I have no knowlage if should be closed or ope?

Thanks.
Les Korcala
Newell 2001 2slides #582