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Is the ferry doable in a 2020P model coach?

Getting ready to head to the NoRally Rally in TN and find a huge blood stain on the floor under the engine… it’s antifreeze and I found the culprit - one of the hose bib hoses clamps is loose or so I thought - I readjusted the clamp (self tensioning type) and added another up higher on the hose. Could the hose have expanded? I did notice that ALL of the valves are closed but my engine ran perfectly and the heat stayed in range from OK to MO to AL over 1000 miles. Not sure if I should snip off some of the hose and reclamp or maybe get a better clamp… anyway I have to get some more Final Charge :-( still a small leak…

It has been a long time since I posted something.
We have traveled full time in this coach for over a decade. This coach is now for sale.

1995 Newell (coach 384)
368,822 miles
All electric coach
Detroit 60 needs overall and is not in good working condition. This unit needs to be hauled by truck to destination from northern New Hampshire.
Replaced Charge Air Cooler 4/25
New coach batteries 8/25
New chassis batteries 4/25
Exterior in Fair Condition
Tires in Good Condition
Interior in Good Condition
Interior remodeled with day/night shades and accented with black acrylic.
Original full-size refrigerator
Full-size stacked Whirlpool washer and dryer 8/20
2 roof air conditioners (3 and 5 years old)
1 remaining original air conditioner in front of coach
New 20-gallon electric water heater.
1 year old Kubota 11,000-watt generator (only 100 hours)
No furnaces-Old Aquahot removed.
We purchased the coach from Motorhomes of Texas in December 2011 and have traveled across the US fulltime. At this time, we do have the desire or time to invest in remanning (overhauling) the Detroit 60.
This coach would be a great fixer upper for those wanting the quality of a Newell. Or a readymade Airbnb as is.

Asking $32,000 with Kubota generator or $27,000 without generator.

Call 603-616-8907 for more details. Steve and Dana Grohman

So everything seems to be operating up until it doesn't..

I'm trying to hopefully think that it's something other than the fan motor itself...

So I opened it all up and I observed two things at the point in which activating the AC...
Okay three things. 

One the motor and/or the fan blades squirrel cage seem to be occasionally touching the metal  housing around it ven when I got it spinning for a while I could hear a little rub every now and again...
Not knowing how this is exactly constructed behind the fan blades I wanted to assume that there was another bearing on the other side of the fan to stabilize it but I don't think that's the case based on some pictures that I found elsewhere... Anyway fiddling was a bit I was able to get it to spend freely with my fingers sort of and then I turned on the Ac.  That said the housing seems to flex more than I liked ..

Two after about 1 to 3 minutes of blower blowing appearing to be normal speed it just shut down Stop blowing which then causes the evaporator in the front to get very hot and shut down the whole unit...

The third thing I found was a little piece of rubber or foam ..appeared to be like maybe an old grommet or something else maybe insulation from somewhere inside the housing about the size of my thumb inside the squirrel cage...... I removed it before I did anything else but I think it's worthy to note is that might have warped the squirrel cage or may have come from somewhere else that I need to find out where it came from so I can replace it I failed to keep it It got thrown out with some other trash that I had there's just inconspicuous. Black colored foam... Or very deteriorated rubber. 

So I think my question is is there electrical that could be interfering with this shutting down the motor or is this truly the motor locking up on its own is there a way to diagnose the difference...

Am I at a place I just need to order a new motor and swap it and see what happens..

I figured somebody else out here has got to have been in a similar situation and have some advice to give I'm all ears.... I just don't want to go deep dive into it if it's something I can just work on while it's still mounted in the rig. 

Thanks for listening/reading. 
Ron

Hey All,
So I plugged in a 12V battery into the old cigarette style port under our (2008) and it shut the whole system down. 

After a system restart, the salon and d/s slide lights sections would not come on although the the switch illuminated on. I went and checked the fuses and they were okay. I pressed the manual override switch on the fuses and they do work. 

So the panel switch illuminates on, the fuses are good, but they
don’t turn on. The fuse override does provide power to lights so they do still work. 

Is there some sort of relay that was blown when I plugged in that battery charger? Any insight would greatly be appreciated.

Hey All,
So I plugged in a 12V battery into the old cigarette style port under our (2008) and it shut the whole system down. 

After a system restart, the salon and d/s slide lights sections would not come on although the the switch illuminated on. I went and checked the fuses and they were okay. I pressed the manual override switch on the fuses and they do work. 

So the panel switch illuminates on, the fuses are good, but they don’t turn on. The fuse override does provide power to lights so they do still work. 

Is there some sort of relay that was blown when I plugged in that battery charger? Any insight would greatly be appreciated.

Hey All, as we start are 3rd season in our coach, we are experiencing the entry door sticking when being opened - with a very loud thud. It looks like the “cleats” that hold the door shut have little to no grade on them. After releveling, this seems to be the only thing, but I wanted to ask before applying grease and making it worse. 

Also, what lube should be used for this?

Our new Bronco Raptor posed a bit of a vertical challenge for towing. Since our Newell's hitches are pretty low, by the time you add on 3-2 reducers, risers, etc. you end up with a pretty long and less-than-optimum setup.

So, taking inspiration from another Newell buddy's, I drafted my own version and "Called Sol" at Accurate Trailer in Santa Clarita. I've seen their work down at MCC and knew I was fortunate to be within an hour drive.

This morning, we took the rig and toad to have it finalized. To say these guys did a perfect job wouldn't be enough...they NAILED IT and I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. BUT, the biggest delight is I've now got ONE single strong piece which also shortened the overall setup.

           

Incidentally, one CRITICAL MEASUREMENT is to allow clearance for the engine hatch to open! Too high and too close...and you won't be a happy camper.

Hit me up if you'd like a PDF of my plans w/o dimensions to have you own built. Oh, and get this...they did this all for $300! That's about what it costs for a bunch of pieces on Amazon.

Here's their info:

Sol Raviv
Accurate Trailer Hitch & Welding
26570 Ruether Ave.
Santa Clarita, CA 91350
(661) 251-9234
   

Just finished up cleaning up my rear most house battery bay behind the passenger side tag axle. 

Heavy rust was removed with wire wheel on my angle grinder. Sanded the entire compartment with electric DA sander to give everything a key for new paint. Vacuum to clean it up and wiped down everything really good with acetone. 
Put on a coat of Defender rust converter on all the rusty spots, you can buy Corroseal at the local big box store and it’s pretty much the same as the Defender. we had to buy Defender for a project at work and you had to order minimum of 4 gallons so we had lots left over. 
After the defender I coated everything with Rustoleum Professional paint in equipment grey. 

Battery tray was removed, cleaned with wire wheel. Same process as the bay, Defender on the rust and then painted with Rustoleum Engine paint silver. Left over from painting my Detroit 6v. 

Here are the photos:

   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Greasing the ZF Axles is easy, 12 zerks, very accessible.  Then the driveshaft has 5 zerks and of course I couldn't' get grease to flow through all 4 points on the U Joint at the differential.  Took it apart & saw some wear so off to Fleetpride for a Spicer SPL170-4X (5-675X) which Fleetpride called a U Joint Kit 1710HR Half Round.  While I had the driveshaft on the bench I was able to check the other U Joint which was OK.

In the meantime I saw that a United 767 hit a bread truck and light pole in New Jersey.  Yikes!  I had a much better day than those guys!

   

Grease Zerk Locations 2014 Newell.pdf Size: 1.45 MB  Downloads: 14