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Any suggestions on how to remove the front basement A/C unit

Well time to replace my small slide out battery tray. This assy is located right behind the tag axle in the small compartment bay. Holds 2 large batteries, 1 on top and one on bottom. Has anyone found a place to source this assy ?

Looking for a recaro Ergo for my Classic

On our way to Arizona, a few months ago, we had an exhaust leak on the coach which caused a small fire. I was able to patch the leak with an exhaust clamp, but it has been on my to-do list to properly repair it.

I removed the exhaust from the turbo back.  To remove the larger flex pipe attached to the turbo I had to squeeze back in there and cut the safety wire holding the exhaust blanket on.  I couldn't get the pipe out the back so I needed to remove the blanket and pull the exhaust out the bottom.

I went out today and fired my Aqua-Hot, let it run for about 45 minutes then fired of the Detroit. I let that run for about an hour just to keep things moving over the winter.  while all that was going on i... took a bike out for a ride since it was 49 degrees in anchorage today. I feel bad for all the folks in the south that are stuck with our Alaska weather. That said this mild winter up here has been super nice.

Everything on my bus seems to be functioning properly. Aqua-Hot only ran for about an hour and a half and raised the inside temp from 38 to 47  so looks like it works like it should.

   

   

bed retracted to drive today. upon arrival bed stuck in retracted position ( shortens bed length, not raise/lower) cant find fuse or where power for the switch originates . Looked at both 12 volt fuse panels- all fuses good- did not find this particular one however.
Any help appreciated tonight in particular.
JD

I put my Starlink under the fiberglass cap in front of the coach and am not getting a signal - has anyone else tried this and succeeded?

Next issue sorting out coach
Hard starting lack of fuel. once started after lots of cranking, will run at low idle for about a minute then shut down. once I can get speed up and put in high idle, continues to run.
Read various posts regarding tank vent, check valve and filter but not sure if my issues is one of these. Any strong opinions?
Thanks
JD

I am going to offer this out to you Valid 6 pack valve users.  if you are interested, fine.  if not thats fine too.  newell switched to valid from hwh in 2004.  

I ordered from Valid the 6 pack valve rebuild kit (6x1053).  that was earlier 2024 and it was 55 dollars for a single valve plus 40 dollars shipping from canada.  i dont know what it costs today.  that was after i had helped a few valid newell folks work on their 6 packs and i saw that the guts were essentially the same.  

on the hwh systems, the stem screws into a brass or aluminum body that then screws into the manifold.  the valid setup has the stem (that the plunger goes in) screw directly into the manifold.  the orfice is in the manifold whereas the orfice is in the brass body that screws into the manifold on the hwh setup.  

the grove that wears in the seal of the plunger is normal over time.  if it gets scored from debris is when it can possibly leak by.  of course there are many other reasons that the suspension can leak down or go up when it should not.  these are just one of the reasons.     these kinds of valves are normally done in completely clean and dry systems and meant for zillions of actuations.  of course our systems are not that clean with moisture and sometimes debris of rust running through them.  that is the culprit.  

that kit that i got from valid is pictured below.  it has a new stem, the one oring it uses, the plunger and a spring and the nut to hold the coil on.

i have done many of the kits for hwh setups and the need for the stem that screws in the manifold has only come up a few times when someone damaged it taking it out. 

the measurements on the plunger are within tenths of a millimeter.   the valid coil is 14watts and the hwh coil is 9 watts, so the springs that i have for the hwh kits i am suggesting to not use since i am not sure of their spring strength in the valid setup.  the original valid springs should really be fine.  it is just the wear on the seat of the plunger that we get concerned about.  

if you have had them apart,  the is way more slop in the plunger inside the stem than the minute difference in the dimensions.  

if you look at the valid plunger and the one that i have the only real difference is how they insert the seal.  there has to be an air escape hole to put the seal in.  on mine it is a tiny hole on the side in the groove.  on the valid there is a large hole the length of the plunger coming out the bottom.  the valid seal is red,  mine is blue

so my kit for valid use would include 6 plungers,  6 orings, and the spanner wrench to take them out of the 6 pack manifold.  

until my costs go up, that would be 125 dollars including usps shipping in the usa.   that would do one six pack.   i charge more for the hwh kits as it has springs and more o rings.  

i know some have bought other plungers that dont fit and removed the seal and re inserted it in the valid plunger.  i am sure that is just fine as well but i have not done it.  it is probably cheaper as well.  

if you look at the hwh plunger thread,  you can see one of our gurus was here at my home and he installed the plungers that i have in his front six pack and has been traveling for a while with no issues.  that thread is many years old.  i have had zero issues with any of the parts over that time.  including guys from the foreforum.  they have a longer thread on this using my parts for hwh systems.  

as always when working on the six packs, block up the coach so it wont come down on you.  (especially the front since it is behind the drivers headlight behind the bumper.)

my pictures are of used plungers.  the new ones dont have any wear in them.  

if you are interested, please email me at [email protected]    feel free to contact me if you have questions.  i am more than glad to give you my phone number, just not here.  if you dont feel comfortable doing this, then don't   i am just trying to help out.  

i am not a business, and started doing these to help out a few buddies.  the foretravel gang grabbed ahold along with our newell friends.  i order these in fairly small batches and just post here on gurus and the foreforum when i have them. 

tom

my display changed for some reason,not displaying status or system info. I noticed the device name is no longer the model ...3012 on the drop down menu but invchg 00.
how do I correct?

Thanks
JD