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Hey guys, trying to get my head around a new issue that has come up on my 2004 Newell coach.

When plugged in to mains power, everything works as normal however Aqua hot heater (Electric side) is not working, light comes on next to the switch in the panel above the microwave, i can hear something click at the rear of the coach when switched on but does not get hot at all.

Along side this when i try to run the generator it starts up but then immediately turns itself off. Someone mentioned to me this could be related as the generator has a safety feature and wont run if the invertor is not working?

Possibly related, I had a driver driving the coach for a few weeks on a tour, he was running the invertor 24/7 while driving and at one point he lost all dash lights while driving, could this all be related and if so what does it point towards?

Any help would be much appreciated!

https://lakecity.craigslist.org/rvs/d/li...48697.html
Found on Craigslist, as I’m entertaining the idea of one of these.  No affiliation with this listing.

The Spyder Control Panel offers Auto-Fill settings to select "Start Level" percentage, "Stop Level" percentage to start and end the auto-fill. 

Does anyone know what the water fill settings for "Max Time Out" minutes, "Run After Minutes" and "Run After Seconds" should be and what they do?

Not mine, but thought I'd share.  

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/ite...067173737/

Hi all,

Hope everyone is having a fabulous 4th of July weekend. 
While traveling on I-26 from Columbia, SC to Hendersonville, NC, I lost my exhaust tip and about a foot or so of the exhaust pipe. My wife kept telling me that she was hearing some sort of noise coming from the back of the coach but since I didn't hear anything, I just kept on going (dumb). Anyway, a little while later, I was looking at my outside mirror and saw something flying come out from underneath the Toad. I stopped and walked around the coach but didn't notice anything missing. We only had about 10 more miles to the campground, so we got back in and kept going. I assumed I picked up something on the highway and was dragging under the toad for a while (apparently, that strange sound my wife was hearing). Anyway, we got to the campground and while unhooking the toad, I noticed that my exhaust tail piece was no longer there.  We jumped in the car and drove back to where I saw the flying object (actually we had to go about 5 miles south of the spot to find an exit). Fast forward, no luck whatsoever. Looked and looked, pulled over several times for false alarms.

I am heading back to Columbia on Tuesday and have about a 2.5 hour drive. 

Questions:

What, if any risks do I have driving without the tail piece? 
Should I be concerned about the exhaust heat going back up in the engine compartment and causing the engine to run hotter? 
Could the additional heat on the fiberglass rear cap cause it to catch on fire?

Below is a picture of what the tail piece looks like on my '92. Does anyone know if Newell will still have these available or am I looking at having to get one fabricated? I plan to call Newell on Tuesady but thought I would ask you guys as well.
   

Howdy all and Happy 4th!
We are looking for any info or experience that anyone can please share about coach #463
it needs quite a bit to bring it back to its original glory but the main concern I have is there seems to be exterior body panel frame separation at the lower corner of the rear slide. the seller said that several rivets popped which I am concerned about as i did not think this coach had a riveted exterior. Has anyone actually seen this coach? Any info would be greatly appreciated 


   

Arch Jones
Williamsburg VA
Hopeful new owners of 97 Newell #463

Some of you may be WAY ahead of me on this one, but I learned something accidentally while trying to solve a three year nuisance coolant leak. 

It took me a year to find the leak, because if was the connection between the coolant pipe exiting the top of the radiator and the thermostat manifold on the engine. The thermostat manifold is located behind the alternator and AC compressor on my Series 60. What made it more difficult is that I never saw a wet coolant drop anywhere, I would only smell coolant when I first started the engine. Now I know that’s because the coolant was dripping on the exhaust manifold where I could not see it. So when I first cranked the engine, it would vaporize the wet spot and I would get a whiff of coolant. I finally found it by stuffing white paper towels EVERYWHERE I could think of that might leak. 

So once finding the leak, I removed the alternator and AC compressor to gain access, and I replaced the common radiator screw clamps with the fancy constant tension clamps. I even used TWO at the leaking joint. 

Here is a pic of the clamp I used.     

But to my dismay the leak was lessened but not stopped. Hmm snug the clamps (two more times) and still the leak is not stopped. 

In my frustration and unsupervised downtime, I removed the alt and compressor again to gain access to see if I had used the wrong size clamps, look for a hole in the silicone connector tubing, or some other unknown. I decided to replace the clamps because I did not know what else to do, hoping that an engineer’s definition of insanity would not apply. ( Doing the same thing over, but expecting a different outcome). While sourcing the replacement clamps, the accidental learning occurred. The only clamps of that size that the truck parts place had were these.
   
I don’t normally use those, but it was all that were available. At first I tried to reinstall the constant tension flat clamps in the first picture, and I noticed that the connection to the thermostat manifold was one of those that had a slight bulge in the pipe. You could feel it through the silicone tubing. When I tightened the flat band clamps around the bulge, they would always slide in one direction or other off of the bulge. Things that make you go HMMMM. 

Then I looked at the second style of clamp. It has a curved section around the interior of the clamp. I wonder to myself if the purpose of the curved section is to center the clamp on the bulge. Well, I learned after installing it, that the purpose is indeed to center the clamp on the bulge. 

Bingo, bone dry after a couple of weeks and a thousand miles. 

This gets a bit tricky. The first style clamp works really well when the tubing is slide over a straight section of pipe, and the turbo connections and the coolant connections that Newell uses are straight. However the connection to the engine has the bulge. So in that case one style clamp is called for on the straight connection and the other style on the bulged connection. 

And so concludes band camp.

Good day folks,

I have been directed here by someone on one of the Newell Facebook groups who has told me you are all lovely and helpful people

I have been assisting with the recommissioning of coach #172. As far as I know it sat for quite a few years before being purchased by its current owner. The engine (8v92) was then pulled (unsympathetically, with a digger I believe) for a full rebuild, during which all the cut tails of hoses and wires were disconnected and discarded by the rebuilders. We’ve managed to get nearly everything reconnected and replumbed now, starts, runs, builds air, brakes work, levelling works, stops all as it should, but we appear to be missing a few pieces, where or when they were lost we do not know.

Would anyone here be able to advise on the hydraulic pump for the steering, we have two lines, one running forward I believe, the other from the reservoir but no pump, just what appears to be a fresh blanking plate fitted to the back (front I guess) of the engine.

Secondly, I believe there should be some form of oil pressure manifold on the passenger side frame rail in the engine bay, this has also been removed and is missing. Would anybody be able to advise on the senders/switches that were fitted to this rail, and where on the engine it would have been plumbed to, so that we can recreate the manifold and have a full set of working gauges and safety systems again.

Many thanks in advance, Jay (in the U.K btw, where knowledge and parts of older heavy diesels are slim pickings)[amoff][/amoff]

So this never worked in my coach. Low air light flashes (now that I installed new LED indicators on the dash along with flashing module to get my attention) and the chime is very low volume. When I put my volt tester to check for power to the chime, I get 12.6v and then the chime wakes up to full audible capacity. Not sure why my tester (Typical Automotive probe type with awl style poker) Should I put in a resistor there? I thought I was told the owner had something done to quiet them down. I can't remember.

I have an issue with streaks on the side of the coach after a rain.  I have found this tool does a great job of wiping them off after the surface dries.

California Car Duster Triple Threat Duster™ with Adjustable Extension Handle 96629, RV Duster, Home Duster, Auto Duster - California Car Cover Co. (calcarcover.com)