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• Latest member:Skip Harter

Howdy all,

I get notes and comments now and then (more frequently as our numbers have grown) about how things are not working or working the way folks would like on the forum software.  i want you to know that we do the best we can to help those that have problems.  

we all get used to using websites that are built by and run by professionals.  newellgurus is not run by either of those.

i own and operate it with the help of my son and a handful of willing gurus that act as admins and moderators.  we use freeware and i cover all the hosting and other expenses myself, never asking for contributions.  and i never will ask for contributions and thankfully refuse those that offer.  and that has been the case for the 9 years since we created newellgurus.  

the forum runs relatively smoothly but does require work on our part and is not perfect by any sense of the word.  and it is a work of passion and care that we love to do.  

i never expected it to have as many that have joined us and i like to think it has helped many.  for sure darlene and i have made many many dear friends from it.  

please continue to be patient with us.  my day is always brighter with phone, email, text or forum contact with you.  and like many others on the forum, i have contact with some of you almost every day.  

i talk to karl blade occasionally, and i know he is appreciative of the help that the gurus give each other.  

i also know that there are many on the forum that are very experienced with our rigs that dont post much.  i know because i talk to many of you.  please take the time to share your experiences on behalf of all of us.  

i am not looking for kudos on what we do, but rather wanting all of you to know that we are doing the best we can to offer a forum to help each other.   

thank you to all of you....

tom

I would like to get a smaller diameter steering wheel. The current one is way too huge for my comfort at 20". I have been searching for something in the 17" size on google with the search words "GM 9 bolt 17" steering wheel" but the searches only come up to Truck shop parts which in turn do not have any specifics. I may have to call them. Has anyone also gone this route? Short of that, I might have to get the steering wheel and hub but I am not sure if this column is 36 spline?

So I just posted some before and after pictures of my LVP floor install. I did have an incident while working in the front passenger area and I cracked the black curved trim. I was being lazy and used the doghouse as a support when went to stand up. Unfortunately, I didn't put my hand on top of the center console (thought I did) but right on the radius corner of the black trim. Apparently that black material is not made of a material that will structurally support 220 lbs. It is actually a very thin piece of plastic. Anyway, I now have multiple cracks in the trim and it looks really bad. 

Does anyone know if there are replacements for something like this or any suggestions on how I might be able to repair it. I would prefer to just replace it but its probably wishful thinking..

Hello all,

Finished up the new floor today and thought I would share some pics. I must admit that this project was a bit more difficult (okay, a lot more difficult) than I anticipated. It took considerably more time than I budgeted for and I can certainly understand why professional installers charge what they do. We had a couple of estimates in the 5K-7K range, which at the time, I thought was outrageous. I still wouldn't pay that much for a new floor in my 30 year old coach, but I would charge that much (or more), if I had to do the install for someone else.

After all the complaining about how difficult it was and how long it took, I have to say it was well worth it. The new floor looks great and really gives the interior a fresh look. I know the carpet that Newell used was very high quality but it was 30 years old and it was time to go.

Thanks to everyone for previous posts on this topic and for those that responded to some of the questions I had along the way.

So if some of you remember last week, I was carefully washing the front blower bay and got blasted electrically. I was using a stainless steel garden hose (you know the ones that never kink but instead become an unraveled mess and leak all over?, Yes, thats the one!) So the water spray I thought must have hit something live on the blower. Well I had realized the other day when I was adding a receptacle that all of them were showing reverse polarity. The neutrals in the breaker box were hot. So I checked my 120v cord which is feeding the coach and it is correct. The previous owner left me with two adapters to drop from the 4 wire 50 amp cord to the three wire "V" 30 amp configuration and finally another short cord from the 30 amp to the 120v. I checked the 50 amp cord and it is properly wired. Would the two 18" converter plugs be made wrong to send the power reversed? Both short cords are made by Camco which is a good company. I ordered from Amazon (Because Bezos needs another rocket ship) a 50amp to 120v cord so see if that helps with the reverse polarity. Coach is otherwise wired correctly. Have any of you gone through this? Incidentally, the metal exterior of the coach was live with my Greenlee 6706 tester. Crazy. Now I keep it unplugged except at night to charge the batteries from the days use...

Since fixing the PennTex Alternator a year or so ago I have never heard noise from the alternator but now it squeaks when the engine first starts up and when the slide rooms go out.  I tried tightening the belts a few weeks ago and they were shredded within a 100 miles or so.  How do tight should they be?  I know there is a tool but is there an easier way to guage them?  Currently if I push on them (two belts going around the alt, engine flywheel and a/c compressor) I can push them in about 2” as I recall.  How do you guys gauge the belts please?

Hello all that may have insight...

I have serial 278 and today my master lighting switch no longer lights up my interior lighting. My fridge also is off but yesterday everything was fine. I looked for a Master Light circuit breaker to no avail, this is all off of shore power.

Anyone have any idea and/or direction I should look in?

Thank you in advance.

-Mike

A great example of why having a dashcam in your towed is a good idea.
https://www.facebook.com/100009505743781...9396469991

I'm (reluctantly) thinking of selling my 2005, Newell Coach model 450, 717, VIN 1N9458X8151011717, which I purchased used from Newell in 2012.  Currently its at the Newell factory getting some more minor maintenance.  It has a little less than 109,000 miles on it.  Last trip was to High Plains raceway in eastern Colorado July 31-Aug 2, 2021.   It's been stored in an all metal garage condo with a 11" by 50" section of the concrete floor that has radiant heating in it.  It's never been <55 deg F during winter.  Its been maintained exclusively by Newell since my purchase.  This year, in addition to the prescribed annual maintenance activities, all of the house and motor batteries were replaced with new Odyssey AGM type batteries as well as new front tires (June 2021).  All tires are Michelin 315/80 R22.5.  In June 2019, all drive wheels were replaced with new Michelin 315/80 R22.5.  Whenever I change the front tires (every 3 years), I move those tires to the tag axel.  Also, at the last maintenance trip in June 2021, the inverter was replaced.  I have all the photos from the original build shop drawings.  I'll post photos when I can figure out how to upload them.  The coach is driven every 2-3 weeks for about 1.5 hours on a freeway (to keep the seals lubricated).  Asking price is $210,000.

[size=1][size=1]I have all  number 717, with a little less than 107,000 miles.  I have all the original pictures from the Newell website when I brought in in 2012.  At that time it had ~67,000 miles on it.  We used to go to a Newell rally most years  but haven’t been in a few years.  Its been maintained exclusively by Newell since I bought it and stored in a 27’ by 60’ garage condo with an 11’ x 50’ area radiant heating that was installed when the garage was constructed (all metal building).   entry, 4 slide-out show coach (for that year), coach number 717, with a little less than 107,000 miles.  I have all the original pictures from the Newell website when I brought in in 2012.  At that time it had ~67,000 miles on it.  We used to go to a Newell rally most years  but haven’t been in a few years.  Its been maintained exclusively by Newell since I bought it and stored in a 27’ by 60’ garage condo with an 11’ x 50’ area radiant heating that was installed when the garage was constructed (all metal building).  [/size]entry, 4 slide-out show[/size]ch (for that year), coach number 717, with a little less than 107,000 miles.  I have all the original pictures from the Newell website when I brought in in 2012.  At that time it had ~67,000 miles on it.  We used to go to a Newell rally most years  but haven’t been in a few years.  Its been maintained exclusively by Newell since I bought it and stored in a 27’ by 60’ garage condo with an 11’ x 50’ area radiant heating that was installed when the garage was constructed (all metal bu

I've been parked here in Michigan for about a month, when I got here I leveled up, rested the coach on blocks and released the air form the suspension so that my compressor doesn't run so much.  The jack stand under the right rear sank a couple of inches over time so a I decided to relevel. I raised the entire coach all the way, reset my jack stand and and went to lower the coach onto the blocks.  As the coach dropped I started hearing and unusual amount of creaking and the windshield started leaking(it was raining at the time). I couldn't figure out what was going on until I got out of the coach and noticed that the center piece between the windshield sections was no longer square to the world and the drivers side was higher than the passenger side.  I raised the passenger front corner backup which took the stress off the windshield but now we are way higher in front.  My coach has the "Newell leveling system" it is a panel of 8 rocker switches, one to raise/lower each corner and one for each side, front and back.  I can hear the solenoids click when rocking ea switch up and down except the driver front corner, it clicks when pushed to the raise position but not to the lower position.  I got under the front and found the proper connector and put a voltage meter on it while Dianna actuated the switch, no voltage.  My understanding is that all the circuits are on the same fuse (though I can't find that fuse) so all I can figure is that the switch must be faulty, any ideas?  What would be the best way to drop the front in the mean time?  How do you get to the back of the panel the switches are mounted in to check the switch?