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We're in Northern California and are looking for any service facilities who would perform a brake service on ours with the ZF axles.  Anyone have any suggestions?  Thanks!

Wanted to run this past folks who have attempted to source replacement air valves for ISRI seats.  Got the following tip from someone on the POG FB group that sourced a valve overseas that thus far works perfectly.   Wanted to see if this would be the same valve one would use on our/all ISRI seats?

https://www.isriparts.com/product/air-va...6834e7a283 

458 is not currently using air in the seat and I was planning to tell a new owner that they needed to install a paddle valve, but if this valve solved the problem that would be pretty slick.  Lead time on the valve posted above was two months per the guy who turned me onto it.

I have never had any issues while traveling with the RV but this last trip I took had 3 issues all in 4000 miles we did. None of them left us stranded but I was shocked on how all 3 happened on the same trip!

The first one was after the first night, tried to start the coach, nothing, no click click, nothing. Wen on the back, check batteries perfect shape. nnn went on the back panel, hit the relays with a big screwdriver sparks all over the place! Great, replace the battery merge relay and we were on our way (not replaced perfectly but enough to get us started and once we got home I could take care of it. 

We reached our destination, Fort Sill in Oklahoma, started setting the coach up, opened the water valve, the water manifold blew up, too much pressure I guess on the water connection or the manifold was on his way out....OK....shut everything down....water, water pump, brought water on buckets to the kitchen etc.

On our way back I started to think that I was extremely tired because I could barely see the road when I look at the dashboard and I could also barely see the gauges! I thought man I better stop RIGHT now, it seems that I can't see correctly! I stopped at a Walmart  that was a mile away and then I went down I realized that all 12v lights were SUPER dimmed. Turned everything off, opened the engine bay and saw a few part of insulation that came off and fell on top of the alternator breaking the belt  no problem I can start the generator right? Nope, batteries were almost dead by that time, so, disconnect the tow, jump the batteries and started the generator, waited around 15 minutes and I was able to start the coach and we were on our way back, left the generator on all the time, just in case, didn't want to jump the batteries again.

Now at home, replacing the water manifold, looking for the alternator belt and finishing the merge really installation, I guess that there is a first time for everything huh?  

Still amazed that with all those "troubles" we weren't stranded on the side of the road!

Hey Guys,

On my last trip while driving they Mississippi some insulation came off and landed on top of the alternator, this cause the belt to cut off and lost my alternator. I can use the RV with the Generator just fine but I would love to have my alternator back, while I do have pieces of the belt how do I know what size and what belt specifically to get? also, how to I install the new belt? Should I remove the bed panel to access it from the top?

Any help will be highly appreciated.

Thanks!
Juan

Hi What is involved in draining and protecting the Auqahot from damage from freezing temps when not in use?How long does it take?Is it a big deal or problematic to do?Thanks all Gyros!

So we planned on doing a remodel in our coach from the getgo. That said, I did not want to have to tear into it sooner than later however with the addition of a color back up camera system, this necessitated removal of some trim. Of course, the while you're at it part suggested the T-12 fluorescent light fixtures had to go, the halogen puck lights for LED pucks, so on and so forth. In my dismantling of the interior trim, I have become very comfortable with the construction of this unit and found the elusive missing fuse panel up front behind the passenger foot wall. I found a nice clear path for the rear camera cable which led me to this discovery. Eventually, I will take Tom's offer to stop by his shop and have a "formal" education on the systems but until then, we had to remove the green shades and gold trimming. We loved gold trim in the late 90's but now we are into grey tones and muted cremes. Prefer bushed nickel over gold/brass. So anyway I was amazed at the wiring or lack of proper terminations made that were behind the curved panels (Incidentally, those curved panels are real carved curvatures of solid wood) Two of the 120v connections were sparking within their plastic crimp covers. My plan will be to solder all those connections and install new wire nuts before covering them back up. I also did not care for the 120v loose conductors being tightly stapled down to the wood trim. I guess being an electrical contractor and doing things to code is what threw me off. I get it, this is a recreational vehicle where anything goes. 

So after pulling the long rear view camera wire, I did test it to make sure it works. Nice picture too. Marie wants cat 5 wiring put in just in case since it is all open. Any suggestions for additional wiring needs?

A few pics of the mess. My framer will be in town to handle some cabinet modifications and flooring swap. I need to keep working to pay for this! (At least I need to keep my guys working, that is)

So I ordered a replacement generator slide switch. The one they sent me has the red knob whereas mine is a black knob with 1/8 npt fittings. New one uses 1/4" npt threads. So I received just the valve block with no fittings. I do not want to reuse the fittings I have on my old valve. Having said that, What are the two fittings on the bottom called as I am trying to source them for 1/4" npt. (Again, I do not want to use mine even though they are stepped down unless I absolutely can't find new ones)

They seem to have a screwdriver slot for some kind of adjustment. For nearly $300, I thought the new valve would have all that stuff on it. Silly me...

Cruising I 40 westbound, minding my own amongst the ten jillion trucks. Truck in front of me, swerves drastically. There is a tire, not just the tread, the whole truck tire, in the road. I swerve as hard as I dare and just clip it with the edge of the driver side tires. 

I look in the mirror to see what the obstacle did, only to see my muffler turning somersaults down the road. I am not that quick, but I know immediately that this is no bueno. 

Travel up the road a bit till the next safe place to park, listening to exhaust notes and worried about CO poisoning. On the upside, the jakes sound wicked. 

Disconnect car and travel back to the scene of the crime to find clamps, muffler elbow, muffler and tail pipe all within 100 yds of the tire, and all on the right side of the road. I didn’t have to enter traffic to retrieve anything. It’s a bit scuffed, and a hammer fixed enough of the dents to reinstall. 

We are back on the road, just a bit later than planned. 

Safe travels.

Getting ready to replace push connections on the air line manifold. Is there a better way first to release the pressure than just turning the regulator to "0" and waiting for the leaks to bring it down?  Peres me with regulator at "0" I don't need to turn off the pump. Looked through many files here but couldn't find the answer. 

Thanks,
Terry 
(Newbie which is likely obvious)

coach # 462 after a few (2) FAST showers and some toilet use (1) person holding tank reads full and starts coming up threw shower .i can dump the it will read full but same thing happens . fresh water tank holds so no leaks into black tank