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You Tube Review of 99
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
Last Post: [email protected]
Yesterday, 08:32 AM
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Compressor question
Forum: General
Last Post: [email protected]
06-17-2026, 04:42 AM
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1997 Newell
Forum: Discussion about what to consider on buying a used Newell
Last Post: [email protected]
06-16-2026, 02:17 PM
» Replies: 3
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Tag axle bushing replacem...
Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
Last Post: [email protected]
06-16-2026, 07:32 AM
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Coach 567 for sale
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
Last Post: bestgenman
06-16-2026, 06:01 AM
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» Views: 9,380 -
Allison operating temps
Forum: Drivetrain
Last Post: whited44
06-15-2026, 10:18 AM
» Replies: 40
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2005 Newell 736 For Sale
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
Last Post: dmach
06-15-2026, 07:27 AM
» Replies: 2
» Views: 314 -
2002 Newell 631 for sale
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
Last Post: [email protected]
06-14-2026, 07:55 AM
» Replies: 4
» Views: 446 -
Pressure on tag axle
Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
Last Post: [email protected]
06-12-2026, 01:57 PM
» Replies: 39
» Views: 63,874 -
HWH Air Leveling Issues F...
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
Last Post: whited44
06-10-2026, 04:52 PM
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» Views: 7,216
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California to roll out new motorhome emission standards that include out-of-state vehicles. Bill 210 goes into effect in July 2023.
https://www.rvtravel.com/california-mand...s-testing/
The attached picture details the requirements currently for trucks servicing the docks.
Just curious if anyone has any help for me. My front 1/2 bath toilet is not flushing. This is what is going on -
1. When press flush button the system makes a sound for 1 second and shuts off
2. Had a tech look at it briefly and he stated -
"It appears that the electric water control valve in the bay does not open all the way to allow enough water to create the pressure for it to flush. Also the 120 volt water pump will only run up to 50 lbs of pressure and the manual calls for 65. It also drops to 25 lbs before kicking in again."
Any ideas? The rear works just fine btw.
Thanks - Brian
Does anyone know what paint is used on the generator? Mine looks like a hammered silver tone. I spent the day degreasing the area. Maintenance guys never cleaned up after themselves over the years. There are no leaks from the unit itself just remnants of oil caking up from removal of filters and such. There's a few spots I would like to touch up. Generator cleaned up nicely!
Hello to all and thanks for having me.I am Tim R from Wentworth NC,a Pavement Marking small business owner going on 30 years.Our shop and office is located in Reidsville NC.Married to my wife Kathy for 25 of those.I am a ex Private Pilot,Racecar Driver and Jack of all trades master of none.I am not a current or former owner of any type of Coach or R/V,but find myself wanting to join the club!I am here to gain knowledge for if and when I decide to take the plunge.I am almost certain it will be a Newell Coach if I do.Once again thanks for the addition to the page.Tim R.
Not sure where the plug went and it doesn’t seem to leak anything but I need to plug it up…
So on my MacBook, I do not get the latest updates on threads whereas my phone is more current with what's going on. Both are Apple products. Is there a setting on my computer I need to adjust? Basically my computer makes it seem as if there is no activity here. Weird!
Had a brake dragging issue, after a long stop it seemed to be ok. Temps went down. Now at my location as soon as I release the parking brake there is a pretty massive brake system leak in the rear. I'm pretty sure it is on that same passenger drive wheel. As soon as I apply the parking brake the leak stops.
Any ideas what has failed.
I'm at Mountain Falls, North Carolina Might also need mobile repair if it's not something I can do my self. Any one have any recommendations for this area.
I will be replacing my front 315 rims and tires at Newell as I have decided to upgrade to 365. These are for hubs with 1-1/8 studs. They are in almost new condition. One has a brand new tire, the other was put on in 2018 with minimal mileage. If you are interested, let me know soon. My appointment is at beginning of Nov, but I imagine it will be the sometime in Dec when they would be available.
Got this from a friend that installs lots of different high-tech home devices.
“So this co, Wyze, has been making some smart home tech for a few years now aimed at a more budget friendly market and I have tried some of their stuff just to get a take This is the video launching their new video doorbell.”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJX4aSdy...annel=Wyze
If you already have WiFi it's a no wire solution,
hi all,
several years ago, the rubber door seal on the actual door itself of my bode air dear ripped about half way up on the left of the door as you are outside. the rip was about 2-3 inches long. i superglued it and it lasted a while and i glued it a second time.
so i decided to replace it. i called bode north america and gave them the door assembly part number which is listed in my thread from years ago. it also has the bode drawings and part numbers for everything on the door.
with that, i ordered the exterior door seal. 300 bucks.
http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=655
it sat around for a while and since richard was here for a week, we decided to tackle replacing it
the seal came with preformed 90 degree corners for the top of the door and was about 2 feet long on each sided past the bottom of the door
it did NOT have any of the holes cut in it for the 4 latches and 2 deadbolts. we experimented with how to cut the holes on the old rubber (which by the way was much harder and more brittle than the new soft rubber seal) it was the original as it had paint from when the coach was painted on it.
richard set up my drill press with a forstner bit to drill the holes in the rubber, yea it worked and we experimented before doing it on the final piece. there were 16 oblong holes for the latches (2 for each of the 4 latches) and 2 more for the deadbolts.
there is no room for error or you will be buying a new 300 buck seal.
we marked everything on the door with painters tape and pencil markings to know exactly where the adjustable latches had previously been. then took the latches off, put the new seal on before cutting any holes in it, put it in the groove on the top and just around the top corners, then let the seal hang, and transfered the markings on the painters tape on the door to the new seal.
once we did that, we took the seal off and the holes were drilled and elongated with nippers.
putting the seal on takes alot of slippery lubricant (we used the kids bubbles i use for air leaks) on the seal as then you have to get it pushed into an angular groove in the door (just like the slide seals).
once the seal was all the way on and "adjusted" to make it fit over the holes, i cut the bottom off flush with the door, and put the two bottom new screws in to keep it from coming out at the bottom.
then i spent some time adjusting the latches to get the door to inch upwards snugly (as the door closes, it comes in, the inches upward about 3/4 of an inch to get itself in the sloped latches.
richard was the main hole cutter and i did my usual superversion.....ha nice to have skilled helpers here.
pictures below.
tom

