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Hi guys I am super new here and I have spent the past 5 hours reading and reading all about newells. My family and I are looking to join the RVing world and choose to go with the best of the best which is newell. we found a coach that is an early 80's model and it has some issues with it, I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but there seemed to have been a little water leak in the bed room. Also the owner doesn't know too much about what half the buttons do. I can learn I can fix and this coach is a deal in a half. But should I worry about going head first or will this be a fun experience. Please help! Fully open to personal messages and emails to get advice!

OK so after some detective work i managed to find a key that works in my Alarm switch on the outside bay. It's likely NOT the correct one, but it works.

I have activated the alarm armed switch on the panel above the microwave, exited, closed the door, turned the key switch on the outside of the bay to ON. Opened the door. Alarm Sounds.

I have had the outside switch off, the panel switch off and switched the "panic" alarm switch in the bedroom to ON.. Alarm sounds.

I have switched the panel switch to on (armed) and opened the door.. Alarm sounds.

So far so good....but....

With the panel switch to OFF (not Armed) and the outside keyed switch to OFF (open no continuity) After a while, the Alarm Sounds!

If I disconnect the RED relay in that bay with the switch it's off completely, but obviously doesn't work at all.

Weirdly, if I just touch (maybe a bit of a tug but NOT open) the bay door it shuts off.

I DO see a mercury switch on the pantograph hinge....

So what, aside from a main door switch triggers the alarm??

Can anyone identify the relay to the LEFT of the Red one??

See pictures below:



Any info would be great!

Today, I noticed that my L1-L2 120V and 240V indicator lights on the primary electrical panel were off even though I was plugged into shore power. The dash "Shore Power" light was on and the meter's were reading 120V on both L1 and L2.

Starting the Generator and letting it transfer garnered me all the light on properly.

The only thing that is ODD is I am using adapters to go from the 50 AMP 240V shore power cord down to a measly 15 AMP regular extension cord plug (albeit a heavy duty one) Polarity is OK.

I just received the 50 AMP 240V receptacle and will be wiring that up next week, but until then....any reason the lights aren't working?

Thanks,

Hi people. I am getting ready for a 2 month trip in the newell and am getting all the maintenace done for the trip
and new air bags all around was on my list since this is #248 from 1991 i am sure they should be replaced. I started with the Tag axel air bags and had no problem getting them with the information from this site I knew what to buy. The installation went nice. The drive axel and steer axel air bags did not work out so good. I removed a bag from the front so I would get the correct bags. The number was Goodyear 1R11-066 so two months ago I called to find them.  SDTRUCKSPRINGS.COM said they could get them so I ordered and paid for them. Now it has been a month and 1/2 and they have not been able to get them. I am not blaiming them because it is Goodyear that is not getting them the bags. Maybe it is Covid, Employee problems or maybe Goodyear is just waiting tell they get a big enough order to make it worth there will to make them. I am running out of time since I leave in 3 weeks so i saw a set on Ebay and I called them. They did not realy have them but could get them from Goodyear. OK that won't work. Next I called Newell and talked to a friendly girl and she said send her a picture.  OK i did that and did not hear back. I called 2 more times and nobody gets back to me so I don't think Newell can supply bags for these older units. My only Hope is SS truck springs get them before I leave so I will have spares to bring with. What I am trying to get across here is start way in advance for air bag replacement. The only good thing is my old bags did not look that bad but since i blew a front tire I am scared about anything rubber.  Here is a good thing. I replaced my old Magnatec power converter with a Intel Power PD9270 and it works perfect. Gone is the hum in the Stereo and TV. It engine starts with gusto and much faster so recommend this unit.  Thanks for reading my long story.

I'm going to call around under the coach tomorrow. Mostly to keep familiarizing myself with what's down there. I bought a new 20 ton air/hydraulic bottle Jack and 2 sets of 22 ton Jack stands. 

In the past I have driven up on some 2x12 ramps that I made and cribbed using wood. I would like to use the jack and the stands so that I am familiar with the process when traveling. I'll still carry some wood for cribbing but the ramps are to big to haul around. 

From all the posts that I have researched, I think I have a pretty good feel on where to jack the rear end up to get the jack stands positioned where I normally would place the cribbing. However, I'm not to sure about the front end.

All advice appreciated.

Two year owner 2002 coach, 624.  Previously 1999 PreVost owner with front and rare rear side door. 2020 28’ stacker/2003 Harley trike/2001 lightning/40 Packard/52 Ford f1/67 corvette/2006rubicon/a very understanding wife.

Have two options available to me with how I'll view TPMS notifications/data.

1.) I can run Pulse FX in the background of the tablet and enable notifications and that is how I'll get notified of a problem.
2.) I can upgrade to Pulse, buy an extra connector and TPMS info will show up on my BlueFire dashboard.

Thoughts?

Update.  Shared with BlueFire how I'll be connected via J1708 and they said that was a no-go, only way it works on Pulse is with a J1939.  Quandry solved.  Looks like I'll be running FX in the background of tablet or if that doesn't work well I can just have it send notifications to my phone.

Cold weather here in Alaska is around the corner, I was wondering if anyone here had issues with the rubber slideout seals freezing then sticking in negitive temps? Example would be your car door rubber seals freezing your door shut. Frankly I think this would cause some major damage to the rubber seals. Going to have an estimate done to see how much it would cost to have an aircraft cowling and wing cover shop fab up slide "socks" to protect the slides and seals in the upcomming winter. Any other Newell owners up here in Alaska? 

Jesse White 2001 Newell #582

Quad slide, all heated tile, front entry, shower at rear of master bath. https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...wInventory

I know some of you have switched from lead acid to lithium and I am now at the do it point.   Before I make some expensive learning mistakes I was hoping you could recommend what may have worked for you. 

What I am planning on doing:  I will keep 2 lead acid 8D batteries in the back for the Detroit start batteries.  I will put 2 lithium 300ah batteries with built in battery management in the house/generator battery location. 

Future plan includes adding 8-10 300 watt solar panels.  

If you see a problem or opportunity for improvement with my plan please share.   
My needs include being able to boondock (with or without generator).

Questions :
1. I have the original converter and a newer inverter.  I understand I have to replace the converter to charge the lithium.  Do I get a converter/inverter combo or separate units?   Why?

2. I plan to install a battery trickle charger from the lithium to the lead acid.  Will this be enough to maintain the lead acid if I remove the original converter (I know the converter is for the house without merge) but if the engine start batteries die how do I charge them as I do not think I can merge if I go lead acid and lithium?

3. How do I determine the correct ratio of battery ah to solar watt capacity?

4. What am I missing?