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Tag axle bushing replacem...
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You Tube Review of 99
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Compressor question
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1997 Newell
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Coach 567 for sale
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Allison operating temps
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2005 Newell 736 For Sale
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2002 Newell 631 for sale
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Pressure on tag axle
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HWH Air Leveling Issues F...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4YSV9BLiRw
Newell has added their new N1 system that controls all lights, shades, etc. James Neatherry, VP of Engineering, gives a walk through of the new system. It eliminates 12 volt fuses and can reset any circuit from the bay or over the drivers side. It replaces the manual light switches at each location throughout the coach with either a 7" or 5" touchscreen that simulates the switches previous used. The screens are in the same locations as the previous switch panels so there are a bunch of them. This system has been used in marine applications for the past 3 years.
I was running the Genset (Kohler 20KW) yesterday and noticed the dash gauge showed it was about 250 and though this was odd. We were sitting outside the storage building in the 90 degree heat running both A/Cs on the low setting. The Genset did not shut down but I turned it off. I’m suspecting the thermostat may be allowing it to get too hot - I found a thread that showed to check the temps at the thermostat and will do that this afternoon.
I ordered a new air filter and may change out the oil but not sure what viscosity to use (15W-40 I think is in it now from about a year ago - we don’t use it very much, it has around 2500 hours on it). We are planning a trip to TX and don’t want to run without a genset.
I’m also suspect of the airflow from the squirrel cage blower - the blower motor and squirrel cage are working fine but not sure about the air flow - how can I test this (or is ‘hurricane’ strength as Tom put it so eloquently) good enough?
Are there other things I can check? I was thinking of just changing the T-stat, water pump, hoses, belt, oil, all filters just for maintenance sake and don’t mind spending the $ on it… any idea of part numbers? I’ve got the filter/belt numbers but not for the T-stat and water pump…
Gurus,
I think I am the first to have an basement AC SCS control board burn up with the external relay fix already implemented.
Right now, I am in the early stages of investigation but here are the highlights so far.
I have been away from the coach for a couple of weeks. I found that the front AC was not running. Checking the breaker showed that the #1 circuit of the front AC was tripped. I foolishly simply tried to reset the breaker and it acted weirdly. After a couple of tries it reset and stayed that way. (I will talk about this more down below).
I went to the AC unit and pulled off the metal cover where the control board is.
Here is what I found:
Note the burned spot in the upper left corner where the AC for the #1 circuit enters the board.
I turned off both breakers to the front AC unit and removed the board:
It’s clear that there was a melt down on the AC connector. Also, the board seems to have already been repaired since one of the traces has been beefed up.
Here is where it gets weird….
The bottom white connector where the #2 circuit enters the board was also loose!!!! (Like barely hanging on) but there was no visible scoring from arcing.
Newell has a company that is manufacturing replacement boards for the old SCS AC units. They are pretty pricy at around $700…. But they are much more robust than the original SCS boards.
So…what caused the board to melt? In my mind there are two possible scenarios.
1) The white connectors had bad solder joints and just gave up. This caused heat to build up and eventually catch fire.
2) Either of the fan motors are pulling more amps than they should and the excess current burned the board.
Remember that I already have the external relays so any excess draw from the compressors will be protected by the breaker in the breaker panel.
Since the current for the fan motors still goes through the board, I attempted to troubleshoot them. I measured the resistance of the wires that go to the evaporator blower (inside) and condenser fan (outside). Here are the results:
EVAP
C - L (red to white) 6.0 Ohms
H - L (Red to black) 2.6 Ohms
H - C (Black to white) 3.4 Ohms
Condenser
C - L (red to white) 8.0 Ohms
H - L (Red to black) 4.1 Ohms
H - C (Black to white) 4.1 Ohms
All wires showed open between the wire and the chassis.
My amateur view of these readings say that the motors look good. No shorts, and no opens. It looks to me that the SCS board just decided that life was too hard and self destructed.
My plan is to install the Newell version and then measure the current draw on the fans motors as well as the compressors. I will keep ya’ll posted on the results.
Cheers,
Bill
Ps. About the breaker. I should not have tried to reset the breaker until I at least looked in the wiring box of the AC unit. I know that breakers fail….but if I had it to do over, I would not have been so quick to reset. It only took a couple of minutes to get into the wiring box and find the burned wire.
08-12-2021, 06:34 PM
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
- Replies (4)
1986 40' Newell Coach, Looking for someone to give her some love. I haven't use her for a while. I really want to see it get used. Message me.. We can work out something.. Property sold... I will sell or trade maybe.. Located 20877 zip code
NOOB here. Where is the engine oil fill port?
Coach 484 D60
I did search but nothing pooped up. Not even sure what other terms or phrases I might search to find this answer.
Cheers.
Has anyone found a supplier for the air seals for the slide outs besides Newell?
Wondering if we could get one for the bedroom slide without having to buy the large one and cutting it down like Newell wants us to do.
Thanks for any help you can give us!!
Hi Gurus! What LED lights are you using to replace the halogen bulbs in the puck (ceiling) lights? I bought some a few years ago but they are loose in their sockets and don’t work well - plus I bought 5k Kelvin and should have probably gone with 3 or 4K Kelvin… what name brand/model number, Kelvin level do you guys suggest please and where did you get your bulbs?
Hi guys I am super new here and I have spent the past 5 hours reading and reading all about newells. My family and I are looking to join the RVing world and choose to go with the best of the best which is newell. we found a coach that is an early 80's model and it has some issues with it, I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but there seemed to have been a little water leak in the bed room. Also the owner doesn't know too much about what half the buttons do. I can learn I can fix and this coach is a deal in a half. But should I worry about going head first or will this be a fun experience. Please help! Fully open to personal messages and emails to get advice!
OK so after some detective work i managed to find a key that works in my Alarm switch on the outside bay. It's likely NOT the correct one, but it works.
I have activated the alarm armed switch on the panel above the microwave, exited, closed the door, turned the key switch on the outside of the bay to ON. Opened the door. Alarm Sounds.
I have had the outside switch off, the panel switch off and switched the "panic" alarm switch in the bedroom to ON.. Alarm sounds.
I have switched the panel switch to on (armed) and opened the door.. Alarm sounds.
So far so good....but....
With the panel switch to OFF (not Armed) and the outside keyed switch to OFF (open no continuity) After a while, the Alarm Sounds!
If I disconnect the RED relay in that bay with the switch it's off completely, but obviously doesn't work at all.
Weirdly, if I just touch (maybe a bit of a tug but NOT open) the bay door it shuts off.
I DO see a mercury switch on the pantograph hinge....
So what, aside from a main door switch triggers the alarm??
Can anyone identify the relay to the LEFT of the Red one??
See pictures below:
Any info would be great!
Today, I noticed that my L1-L2 120V and 240V indicator lights on the primary electrical panel were off even though I was plugged into shore power. The dash "Shore Power" light was on and the meter's were reading 120V on both L1 and L2.
Starting the Generator and letting it transfer garnered me all the light on properly.
The only thing that is ODD is I am using adapters to go from the 50 AMP 240V shore power cord down to a measly 15 AMP regular extension cord plug (albeit a heavy duty one) Polarity is OK.
I just received the 50 AMP 240V receptacle and will be wiring that up next week, but until then....any reason the lights aren't working?
Thanks,

