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• Latest member:JeffreySammons

Can anyone tell me what this air solenoid controls. My coach is 375 and this solenoid is mounted on the wall of the bay that holds slide out cooler/freezer.

Thank you,
Jeff

For all of the Victron system owners.....cut and pasted from another forum:

"The operating system for Victron Cerbo GX and the Ekrano GX is called Venus OS and it has been in the wild for nearly a decade and has constantly received upgrades and tweaks. It has just received a major overhaul and upgrade and version 3.60 was deployed today. Here is a blogpost that describes the major improvements: Venus OS 3.60. This update is not just tweaking, it adds a significant number of new, and long waited for, features".

I'm currently working through some AC issues.  My ultimate plan is to install a mini split in the front and keep the rear working for as long as I can.  I have a trip, coming up however and I'm trying to cobble somnething together usind the high current relays as others have done.  My problem is my thermostat and/or board are doing strange things when it comes to HI/Low.  I can work around that as well by wiring up only high, but I am trying to understand exactly how the system is suppose to work (in referance to the HI / low fans and one vs. two compressors).  In low is only one compressor supposed to work?  Is the wiring on the cond/evap fans high /low windings or additionaly fans?  If it is higher speed windings are both the high and low windings energized on high or only the high????  

Thanks in advance for any information.  


Gregg Miley
530-228-5399

I returned to my coach after being absent for 2 1/2 months on a medical emergency and found I had no power from my house batteries. Normally the lights above the microwave that indicate water level, holding tanks, and temperature were off, and I had no 12 volt compressor. I went out and checked the house batteries with a battery tester and all checked okay. I checked the inverter and it seems normal. Does anyone have a suggestion on what's the problem?

Thank you,

Jeff 
Coach #375

Stapleton42 has posted a utube video of changing out an air bag. It’s too hot to be outside right now, so I watched it. And I laughed in understanding of his misery. For those of you who have changed your own, you too will smile while watching the struggle. 


For those of you who have not changed one or more, you will no longer wonder why the shop charges so much to change one.

I've been helping the elderly owner of a 92 coach, low 300's number, for the past few years.

The Series 33 Kwikee step stopped working so I removed the motor & gear mechanism. A few forum threads said Dorman window lift motors would work, so I spent a lot of time on their web site and looked at a lot of motors and found a replacement - Dorman 742-210  We didn't end up buying one because I retested the motor with a different procedure and found it was okay, but I'm 99% sure this is the motor used in a 1992 Series 33 Kwikee step. This motor was used in 87-88 Ford Thunderbirds and Mercury Cougars.

On a more general note, I remembered back a few years when the entrance door exterior handle broke. We removed the assembly and I recognized a FoMoCo (Ford Motor Company) part number on it. The local Ford dealer was able to order an exact replacement (I don't remember what vehicles it fit).

So if you're trying to find a part for your early 90's coach, consider looking at automotive parts (particularly Ford Motor Company). It makes sense that Newell would use existing parts rather than designing and making their own, and automotive parts would be widely available.

Hope this helps somebody!

Hi All,

I'm helping an 85 yo guy get his coach ready to sell. It's a 92, low 300's number. It's been sitting for years, although the owner has started it and warmed up the engine once or twice a year. I know only the very basics about diesel pushers like this, just researching and learning as I go.

The coach is level with the engine running but leans badly after the engine has been off for a few hours - roughly 3" higher on the driver side.The campground leveling mechanism hasn't been activated - he starts it, warms up the engine then shuts it off. It takes several days to a week for it to level out.

I believe the problem is an air leak between the passenger side height control valve and the airbags. Neither one of us wants to spend the money for an electronic air leak detector for this one-time use, so it's gonna be soap solution. I've already replaced the driver side HCV because the plastic body had cracked and got it adjusted - not a fun process at all...

Thought it'd be worth running this by the pro's - are there other things we could check first?

We left on a trip to SouthEast TX from Huntsville, AL yesterday it started in the mid-70s and ended up over 95 degrees inside the coach.  We decided to punt and return home early this morning even though the temps would again be in the 90s - this time we had a bunch of windows open and it was much cooler.  The coach has been sitting in a storage building with the front A/C on ‘Low’ setting for a month or so since I was working inside and was cooling down to about 75 nicely during that time… as with any trip, once the coach started shaking and baking (literally) the front A/C died (blew fuse in panel box and would not restart - probably fried the circuit board).  Now I have to decide do I want to pull the A/C units (front and rear) and rebuild the circuit boards if needed and figure out what is really wrong with them or just punt and put in some type of inverter AC unit - I did read through a bunch of replacement threads and it seems like I could use several of the van conversion 48-volt AC units since I have 48-volt rack mount batteries now… I think the inside blower could be mounted pretty easily in the living room where the current ducting is located and another in the bedroom where the TV is located or similar… it’s just a thought … I would LOVE to be able to boon-dock this beast on our land in TN while building our home eventually and run it off the sun and batteries…

I was researching how to pull/repair our ailing SCS basement A/C and saw the following quote! 
Newell Gurus Forum: This is a valuable resource for Newell-specific advice. Search for threads on SCS air conditioners or post your question for community input. Members like Richard and Rhonda Entrekin or Jeff LoGiudice often provide detailed guidance.

Took the rig out to the Hoodu mountains and developed a nasty air leak under the cockpit, figured it was the ride hight valve - still produced just enough air pressure to get back home. Drove the coach up a make shift ramp and discovered a small pin point hole on the bottom of the drive side air accumulator tank. I manually empty the air tanks about 4xs a year to drain the water which I figured is fine since it's not humid up here in Alaska. I guess I was wrong! I did a quick handyman fix of using a self taper screw with a rubber gasket and gasket sealer into the hole of the tank after cleaning it well. I did the same fix on a hot water tank on a Country Coach numerous years back with good results. Going to let the sealer cure a day before testing. Question for you all - how in the heck do you replace these tanks if needed? They are fully encased in a steel frame of the suspension. On my old country coach they were easy to get off with just 2 straps each. Thanks everyone and happy camping!

Jesse and Sara White
Wasilla Alaska
2001 Newell Coach