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Let’s start with Rhonda does a pretty good job of keeping my ego in check.. Even with that, I sometimes have to reflect on the stupidity of something I have done to cut me down to size. 

I spent all day yesterday in such an exercise. 

Let’s start with the background. Some years ago I installed a fancy bidet attachment on the rear potty that required the potty seat to be spaced upward another 1/4 or so. I glued some hard rubber to the “feet” on the potty seat, and that worked well for five or more years. Not attractive, but it worked. Time goes by and the potty seat developed cracks that would pinch your behind if you shifted just right while seated. 

Did I say we had the stupidest color of potties ever conceived, black? 

You don’t go to Lowes and get a black potty seat. No it requires an Amazon delivery, which must be carefully coordinated with our travel schedule. Ok, it’s here and the story begins. Sorry about the preamble. 

Rhonda casually mentions the previous spacer design was hard to clean. Ok, got it. I got the bright idea to use some 1 inch diameter rubber chair tips in black of course. I carefully cut them to the right height, used plastic compatible epoxy, and epoxied them to the underside of the seat. It worked great. 

For a while. As you know, it’s hard to glue anything to injection molded plastic. Bride announces that two of the four spacers are missing. Hmmmmmmmm. Holding the flapper open I was able to fish one of them out with some long pliers. But the other one was not to be found. In my pathological optimism, I imagined it flushing all the way into the waste tank. I was soon to discover that was not the case. Rhonda flushed the potty the next day, and water gushed out from under the base of the potty. If you are familiar with the Microphor design, you understand that means the hopper is compromised in some way and the discharge line is blocked. 

Out comes the potty, and I caught a break. The missing spacer is exactly the right diameter to perfectly plug the discharge. At least I don’t have to try to get it out of the discharge line to the waste tank. The large o ring that seals the hopper halves is blown out, and the screws that hold the halves together are stripped out of the plastic. Folks, this is not a tank that has been holding distilled water for the last 25 years. But it has to been cleaned up before reassembly with stainless bolts and nuts. That was my time of reflection on how stupid it was to try to epoxy the spacers on plastic, how stupid it was to use BLACK spacers, and how stupid it was to use a spacer large enough to plug the discharge. 

All is good, reinstalled, and functional. And I have had a nice long hot shower.

I am looking for an amplifier for 4/5G (LTE) AND WiFi in one unit. Does NOT need to have a Sim card slot nor routing capability. 

I am looking to take my phone's hotspot and use it in the coach. I already have a working router, just need better signal in our aluminum "faraday" cage of a coach.

So I need better signal inside for cellular. AND I'd like to have it do WiFi amplification as well, for when the campground has it's own WiFi since my mobile router, when inside has an artificially shortened range.

Does this animal exist? Manufacturer? Model number(s)

Thanks!

All,
As most of you know, we sold our beloved Newell due to a health scare I had last year.  Our travel plans and family commitments still require us to use an RV.  Our main concern is Doris would not drive the Newell as it is too intemidating.  We looked, at length, the B, B+, C, C+ and Super C offerings and at 6'6" tall concluded the headroom was an issue for me in those units.  We settled down to looking at 35' to 38' class A single rear axle for maneuverability.  Still loving the Newell quality feel the market gets pretty narrow.  We zeroed in on the 2001 to 2007 Wanderlodge, Foretravel and Country Coach with a mid 90s Prevost hankering as a possibility if the right unit came up.  Having said all this, we found a 2007  37' Country Coach Tribute that has 36,000 miles.  We took delivery at the beginning of this month and the first project was to do a Propane Refrigerator delete and install a residential fridge in its place.  Now that is done we are off on a three night short hop next week to get a feel for the coach.
   
   

I just bought coach 469 from 1998 and I can't, for the life of me, find any 120v outlets in the basement bays.  I am trying to plug in a regular device to store in one of the bays but can't find a plug.  Does anyone know if this vintage has any?  I did see what looks like a 30a plug in the bay with the inverter, just in front of the plumbing bay, but that doesn't seem like a regular outlet I would want to use.

Any thoughts?

Hey, I am new to the forum and to Newell Coaches.  I just bought Coach 469 from 1998.  The last owner posted some questions for this coach and I am sure I will need to as well.  Nice to meet all of you.  From the discussions I have had and from the videos I have seen, this forum is the place to go for all things Newell.

Hope my journey is a good one.

Driver side forward slide stopped while retracting the slide when it was 12" out.  Newell had me push on the slide while it was closing & I was able to break the forward outboard bearing loose and close the slide.  At the next stop I opened the slide and greased the bearing.  It closed with no resistance after that.  The bearing rail that I could access was smooth, hopefully it didn't incur any damage.  Newell sent a bearing, I'll wait & do that job later when at my shop unless I'm forced to earlier.  I greased all of the other slides outboard bearings while I was at it.  I carry a suction cup tool for removing the outside panel which is velcro'd on.

The slides on 1482 are the "Integrated End Wall Slide Drive" which I have the manual for.  I have read the posts from others that replaced the bearing.  Today I replaced the bearing, it took around 1.5 hours and is a very easy job using two hydraulic tables as per the Valid instructions.  As you can see from the last photos there were some bearings with rust, indicating a water intrusion problem.

The linear bearings are more sophisticated than expected.  The exposed bearing balls are in a "race".  At each end of the race there is a channel which directs the balls into the bearing body.  As the bearing slides along its rail the bearings continually move and when a ball gets to the end it goes through the channel and then into the body.  If the rail was long enough that ball would come out the other end of the body and then on to the rail at the other end in a never ending loop.  There are 4 rows of balls.

                               

Bearing Data.pdf Size: 7.68 MB  Downloads: 12

KWVE Bearing Datasheet.pdf Size: 1,004.1 KB  Downloads: 10

Monorail Guidance System page 324.pdf Size: 86.82 MB  Downloads: 20

We're in new Mexico heading west on I40 when Hannah calls and says that there is white smoke coming out of the rear of the coach.  We pull over and smell burning wood, smoke is rolling out of the back and when we open the door to the bedroom it and the bathroom are completely full of smoke.  Got the bus shut down. And an extinguisher out just in time. The insulation between the exhaust and power cable compartment has caught fire and was beginning to work it's way up into the bathroom.

We were able to but the fire out without much damage but it did burn the cables to the cable real and got up into the cabinet under the bathroom sink.

I believe the exhaust caused the fire but not sure. 

I was able to pull all of the burnt and smoldering insulation out of the bulkhead area and fill it with fire retardant.  I'm not sure if it's a good idea to carry on though. 

There's not a lot of damage, just some melted wires and a bit of charring on the cabinet under behind the drawers.  We were very lucky to not lose the coach!

Should we call the insurance or just repair the small amount of damage?

Hello everybody!  My name is Gregg.  My wife and I decided to downsize a little from our 43’ Allegro Bus a few years ago and bought a 2020 Thor Magnitude Super C (32’). Well, life changes and we have found ourselves looking to go big again.  The Magnitude is great, I love the 4x4 and the 6.7 diesel has great power and MPG (over 13mpg at 60)….but we miss the room and overall feel of a quality coach.  I wanted to step up from  the Tiffin so I started looking at Prevost conversions.  That ultimately led me to Newell. I have spent hours online and YouTube and went to check out a few.  I really like what I saw. Unfortunately price is an issue so we are limited to looking in the 100k to 200k range.  Wife wants at least one slide so thinking we will be looking at 2000-2004!  I have lots of questions, but felt it was appropriate to introduce myself first!

After talking to Newell and Richard last week, we opened the connector to the front slide retract solenoid. When pressing the slide room switch, I only got .143 volts. Jerermy ordered four solenoids that appeared original (they had the 1/4 inch nut to bleed them) , the others were the latest paddle version. There are three types with some sub variations  ( different diameters)but all have either a T handle, a 1/4 " nut, or the paddles. The front room extend and retract were on bottom closest to the pump and the two solenoids above had to be removed to access them. These were the ones we replaced. After the install the room didn't retract. We opened the connector again and jumped it with 12v (white is +, black is -). Once I got the pump to come on I hooked the 12v to the white wire and the room came back in.

The rear rooms work fine but the pump doesn't stop when you let off the switch , since it was still on I was able to jump the solenoid. The front room switch will turn the pump on but is intermittent and the yellow light is also intermitent.

The control unit isn't sending 12v to the solenoid, not sure yet about the micro switches at the pin locks but the pins were not locked, The lights on the unit don't all work.

My old Amana side by side has died for the second time. I’m not going to revive it this time so before it goes away I want it offer any parts such as shelving, drawers, clips or anything anybody might have lost, broken or just needs to replace. Drop me a note all I’m asking is the cost of shipping 
Bruce