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Sudden loss of power on Highway 101, north of Santa Barbara. Able to make it off the HW. Found this when looking at the engine. Sheesh! Waited 9 hours for a tow, but fortunately had Coach-net coverage, they were great at finding someone to tow it to Central Truth Center in San Luis Obispo. Now the wait till Monday for options. 

What is this part that blew a hole? Is it replaceable without a new engine (my wife's fear).

Larry

I'm not sure what to call this however I was thinking of adding a piece of 3/4" thick steel and welding it to the top of this chassis stop. My rear tires scrub against the fender liners and this would avoid it when the air is dumped or on a roadside emergency. Any thoughts? When I took the pic, I only raised the coach enough to tilt it to the left side so I could dump and sanitize the waste tank. The space there is much much greater in travel mode.

Coach 647, 2003
60 D
My coach has been sitting in my shop, with shop air, my gauges said i had 90 psi on brake and supply side.  The passenger side drve and tag was almost touching tires. I never heard any air leaks the hieght control valve is new.
If anyone has any ideas whats going on i would appreciate thoughts.
Thank you, James Price

Trying to turn on the top isle lights and cannot find the button, found everything else but that lol. They told me it is marked fiber of accent. I have nothing like that. I have a 2008 #1230
Thank you,
James Caylor

Do most Newell's have Trailer Air Brakes?  1482 had the trailer air brake button next to the coach air brake button.  The conglomeration of pneumatic tubing between the two caused a bunch of air leaks so I removed the trailer brake switch/valve.  It can easily be reinstalled but I can't imagine I will ever need it.

The discussion about the rearmost air tank probably being the trailer air brake tank provoked this thread.  It is very difficult to reach above the transmission.

We had 20 degrees this morning here in Alabama and the first time we have been living in the coach with this cold of temperature, at home I blow all the water lines out and put antifreeze in the traps and toilet but we are living in it so I prepared for this unusual weather by disconnecting from water and sewer and closing off any hole going under the coach. I am not up to speed on the heating of the water and aquahot bays and have a few questions. We have a thermostat in the aqua hot bay and a water to air heat exchanger with a fan on it but it doesn't seem to be working. Where does this heat exchanger get its fluid from and what pump is used for it? On the water bay side I have a thermostat that is controlled by pressure bulb type system and a electric looking heater just above the tank, I can turn this on with the thermostat but it either is a very low temp output or its defective. Does this unit put out hot air or just warm air? Is there any heat exchangers in the fresh water tank?

I found a seller on Etsy who goes by ForceCa that makes the engine labels for the Detroit series of engines. He made new labels for my 8v92 and the quality exceeded my expectations right down to supplying the clear over lays for the vinyl labels themselves. I had used a razor blade to peel off my fragile labels and made a copy of them to send to seller. He then made my new labels and sent them on their way. Price was around $140 but very well worth it for my obsolete engine and of course my satiation of OCD. It is my B-day today and this was the most amazing gift to myself! To say I am excited is an understatement. Took days of research to find someone who could replicate these.

   

So, looking at the first pic, what would you do? 
Ignore? 
Wrap with Electrical Tape? 
Cover with shrink tubing? 
Replace the entire cable? 

   

Just kidding. The second pic shows how bad it is inside the cable. In my era coach there is a plexiglas cover over the chassis batteries. The sharp edge of the cover caused the nick. I have no idea if the nick was a month old, a year old, or ten years old. It sure did a corrosive number on the cable. 

I was lucky in that I had a few cables left over from the conversion from AGM to LiPo. One of them was the right gauge and the right length. 

To replace the cable, the stainless cover that the cabling disappears into must be removed. There are way too many zip ties inside that cover to simply pull it through. Obviously one end terminates at the battery. The other end terminates at a power post inside the rear electrical cabinet. Do tie a rope to the old cable when removing to aid in pulling the new cable back through the passage. 

And yeah the plexi cover is getting some modification along with some added protection on the cables.

While having an awesome time climbing around between the drive and tag wheels to do some leak checking above the transmission for an air leak, I noticed a couple of oddities on the drag link bar.  On my coach, there is no zerk fittings on the ball joints at either end and unfortunately both boots have cracked and failed over time.  My plan, such as it is, is to purchase some aftermarket boots and IF the ball joints are still good, to just replace the boots.  If the ball joint is not good, then there seems to be a couple of options.  I could try and have new ball joints pressed in or it is a new drag link bar from Newell ( a little pricey).  

Has anyone else run into this?  Are the ball joints in the drag link replaceable?  Seems like they should be, just like on my old '54 Ford F100...Okay, that may be a stretch.  Has anyone added zerk fittings to the ball joints?

Here is a couple of photos showing the link bar and the boots.
   
   

Morning everyone!

Quick question for everyone before I dig deeper and remove the step motor. Couple months ago I noticed our steps were becoming intermittent and not retracting when pulling the rig out, now they seem to be permitally out. I have removed the door access panel and engaged and cleaned all three switches independently and together without and different result. Under the stairs I have checked the ground connection and unplugged and reattached the main stair plug which illuminates the amber stair light under the stairs for a couple of minutes however the stairs stay extended. Checked the stair fuse and it's good. Everything indicates that the stair motor or maybe the control board has failed, but I noticed the entry door light stays illuminated even with the door closed in the auto position. This tells me that maybe a door switch has failed and not the stair motor itself. 

Figured to ask the group here before going a "step" further and removing the motor to test its functionality. Hopefully Newell has and is willing to email/fax a wiring diagram for the coach. The one thing I miss about my old Country Coach is that every wire was numbered at every junction and the user manuals had all the wiring diagrams  and wire numbers for easy troubleshooting. 

Have a great day!

Jesse & Sara White
2001 Newell 582
Wasilla Alaska