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Battleborn 100 AH batteries with built-in BMS and 10 year warranty (8 year full replacement, 2 year pro-rated) are on sale today only for $849 each. Normal price is $949 each.
I just bought 3 for my Foretravel.
https://battlebornbatteries.com
From the day I’ve considered purchasing a Newell, storage has been a hurdle I’ve got to deal with. Finding an affordable storage facility with electricity and reasonable access is almost nonexistent. Of course I want my own “Bus Barn” but I have a POA in our subdivision to deal with.
I can design a structure that would blend in with the subdivision architectural theme but the giant sized door could be an issue until I found this:
https://www.hydraulicdoors.com/16-foot-t...ts-height/
I have room on our property to build but I may be in for a battle with the POA and overreaching city ordinances...
We’ll see
I thought someone might be interested in the bifold door option, it’s basica a narrow hangar door...
JK
I wanted to put this post under Generators. Please feel free to move it.....
Our 1984 Newell with a 12 kw Perkins gen set has been shutting down after 2 or 3 hours run time. Doesn't matter if its Yuma in July, or the other day in Denver at 15 degrees. Our old analog gauges indicate oil pressure and coolant temps are fine. Oil level is ok, and no coolant is being expelled by the gen set.
Today I decided to give things a good look, and have become side tracked by another unrelated issue. ( See attached photo) The pulley on the motor driving the blower is broken. I have never seen anything like this. I am assuming it is die cast, and at some time in it's life someone has tried to remove it with a good blow with a hammer?
The blower is old with brass bushings, and is very noisy so I think the time has come for a new blower, and a replacement pulley.The original blower is a very obsolete Grainger 2C975 . The current Grainger offering is 5NRD2. It looks like there will be a little welding of sheet metal from the old blower to the new unit.
Can anyone who has been down this trail please chime in with your experience? After getting this done i will focus on the shutdown issue.
Hello All,
Steve & Doris Denton here. Just joined the gurus in search of real world experience with your Newells. We had our eyes on a Bluebird or a Prevost for the next stage of our lives. In our search someone mentioned the Newell....well guess what? Wait for it....the bug has bit. We are focusing our research on the Newell in the 2000 to 2004 range.
My background has been a career in corporate aircraft maintenance to include all aspects of maintaining & operating some pretty cool equipment. I will be hands on in any coach we acquire.
So please excuse my ignorance when asking noobie questions and many thanks to you all for taking the time to post your candid experiences with your coaches.
Steve & Doris Denton
Okay, I want to make sure I’ve got to his straight. I’ll include two pictures to ensure I’m on the right track. It’s part of my effort to winterize the coach. I’ve already run antifreeze throughout the system.
Picture #1- I’ve labeled the two sources that can flow to the sewer system (or ground).
Picture #2 - The Main Dump Valve (usually air activated).
Dumping the waste holding tank utilizing left side plumbing bay:
Remove coach sewer pipe cap, attach sewer hose (slinky) to the connector next to the Main Dump Valve.
Manually open the waste tank valve (in pic #1 the valve appears to already be open).
Activate Main Dump Valve to drain waste holding tank.
To rinse tank hook water hose to tank flush spicket in aft area of Aqua-Hot bay. Rinse until solids have moved through sewer pipe.
Allow tank to thoroughly drain before closing valves.
Run RV Antifreeze in sinks to allow antifreeze to enter holding tank via grey water pipe system. Flush toilets to allow antifreeze to enter waste area of holding tank.
If I understand the system this will also winterize the holding tank.
Thanks, JK
Okay, I want to make sure I’ve got to his straight. I’ll include two pictures to ensure I’m on the right track. It’s part of my effort to winterize the coach. I’ve already run antifreeze throughout the system.
Picture #1- I’ve labeled the two sources that can flow to the sewer system (or ground).
Picture #2 - The Main Dump Valve (usually air activated).
Dumping the waste holding tank utilizing left side plumbing bay:
Remove coach sewer pipe cap, attach sewer hose (slinky) to the connector next to the Main Dump Valve.
Manually open the waste tank valve (in pic #1 the valve appears to already be open).
Activate Main Dump Valve to drain waste holding tank.
To rinse tank hook water hose to tank flush spicket in aft area of Aqua-Hot bay. Rinse until solids have moved through sewer pipe.
Allow tank to thoroughly drain before closing valves.
Run RV Antifreeze in sinks to allow antifreeze to enter holding tank via grey water pipe system. Flush toilets to allow antifreeze to enter waste area of holding tank.
If I understand the system this will also winterize the holding tank.
Thanks, JK
My wife and I are considering buying a 1980 Newell coach that is in Lodi, CA. Does anybody know who I could hire to do a ppi on this coach? The owner of the dealership is the owner of the coach. He told me that he got it from a friend who passed away. His friend lived in it for 5 years on his property. He describes it as a running, driving coach. The generator works and it has water damage on the wood flooring by the shower. He is sending me additional photos of the engine, generator, and shower area.
The owner does not know a lot about the coach, but was happy to have it inspected. He was sure it has a Cummins engine (possibly a 903?) and not a Detroit diesel. I will use the buyers checklist found on the Wanderlodge forum, when I look at the coach. I am in Idaho, so I will rely on my son looking at it (plus a ppi) before I fly to Sacramento to buy it. I would expect to replace the tires, hoses, batteries, and belts before I drive it. Any advice would be appreciated. I also posted this on the Wanderlodge forum.
http://www.lodiparkandsell.com/index...ehicle_id=4494
Sorry if I’m beating a dead horse but I have no experience with a tag.
Three position switch.
Normal driving in the center position?
I understand the options to support weight or shift the weight to the drive axel.
I’ve already had three issues where I’m dragging the skids because of what I felt like was a minimal incline.
Twice into my driveway and once into our subdivision.
In a case where I might drag the rear end should I place the tag switch to support weight?
If so, and I need to raise the suspension to get into my driveway, should I leave the tag in the support weight position and will the tag bags also inflate?
And speaking of skids... Mike M mentioned a rear roller mod? The skids have seen thier fair share of action along with the bottom of the oil pan.
Thanks. JK
hi all,
thought i would get some group wisdom. getting ready to change my slide seal next week i hope so i went to put the front slide in. no go. floor goes down, then i can hear the pump running but no go on coming in. for grins i tried the bedroom slide and same thing. floor goes down but it does not come in. nothing binding and the slides dont jostle or try to move.
i did change the extend hydraulic solenoids for both front and rear slides but i am sure i got the electrical connections right.
i am going to do some more troubleshooting over the next couple of days, but thought i might throw it out to see if anyone has had the same experience
thanks
tom
Good morning,
I’m chasing a engine coolant leak.
I believe it might be coming from a recently changed coolant filter. The filter feels tight. Yesterday I’ve cleaned the area so I can see the slobbering coolant leak a little better. The coolant is hitting the case and drips and runs down on a oil pan mounting bolt area and then runs along the pan/block seam.
Engine work (head removal) was completed last week which compounds the issue but I believe it is coming from or near the filter.
The filter mount and supply/return hoses has shutoff valves for filter replacement.
My question:
For troubleshooting purposes can I temporarily shut off coolant flow to filter and run the engine for a short period of time?
If the coolant “slobbering” stops I’ll pull the filter and inspect the seal and mating surface.
If that’s not it... I’ll keep digging.
Help is appreciated!
Thanks, JK