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Newell has #1565 for sale. This is the last 2020p made by Newell. Tile flooring throughout. https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory

10/1/22 about 1:15 pm North bound on 395 with 1 lane in either direction, at the northern end of Riverside county, CA (So Cal) I saw a later model Newell, darker in color following in a line of another RV and cars working there way up a grade. I was coming down the grade. It was only a few moments as we were each doing 60 ish in opposite directions.

You were looking good and clean, moving along.

I note this because as a West coast family, I just see fewer Newell's and we stand out when we see each other.

All,
Our previous service provider went down for a couple days and stopped responding to us and then magically everything was fine.  That makes me a bit uneasy, so I've migrated everything to a more reputable server provider (Oracle) and have done some pretty big updates to the forum.  If you see things that are broken, give me a heads-up below.  Essentially, virtually all of our support software was out of date by nearly a decade, so updating to newer stuff may have unintentionally broke some things.    

Also, any new posts in the last 18 hours or so may have been lost, so be aware of that when you can't find what you're looking for.

- Scott

What 315-80-22.5 Tires are you running on your DRIVE and TAG and WHY?

Looks like this thing is going to hit us right in the teeth tonight and tomorrow as we are just outside of Punta Gorda, FL.  Reasonably confident that we’ll be ok.  Slides in and coach lowered.  Our casita is built to withstand hurricanes like this.  Will let you know the outcome in a couple days as I am also sure we will lose power in the casita and won’t be back on the coach until all is clear.

Phyllis and I will not make it to next weeks rally. I was really 
Looking forward to seeing everyone. Some body take photos
And post please

Dear Fellow Newell owners, this affects any owner having two piece (basement) AC units.  Our coach is # 277, and we just had three failed AC units.  The fans had quit.

WW Grainger sells 1/6 hp fans and mounting brackets that with a bit of welding to modify the brackets work great.  Anyway, after the fan repairs, two units quit again.  What I found was the copper tubing had shifted and rubbed.  All the R-22 freon was gone!

There are two fixes after repairing the holes in the copper tubing with silver solder.  Make a block (I used wood) and clamp tubing to prevent chafing.  Two, use HiTemp RTV (red color) good for 500° and separate the tubing coils and ensure they are supported to remain separate and not rubbing.

Even the screen protecting the compressor can rub through the copper tubing QUICKLY!!!!  I have pictures, but seem to post them here. These units used R-22. Newell now used R-422B. Feel free to call or write if you wish more information. 

deg ([email protected])

I understand current and recent production has 143G Water/Waste tanks.  Has this always been the case?  Is there information anywhere about holding tank size over the years?

Thanks!

My 110V air pump started running every 12 minutes so I knew I had a substantial air leak.

My air system has three air systems--the brake system, supply system and 12V system.  The brake system holds constant pressure and is monitored on the dash gauge.  The supply system & 12V system are joined together when the air pressure is above 60 psi.  Once the supply air system drops below 60 psi a 60 psi check valve closes and the 12V air system is isolated from the main supply air system.  REMEMBER:  NO TWO NEWELLS ARE EXACTLY THE SAME, SO YOURS MAY BE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT.  The concept and methods of how to find air leaks though is the same.  Several years ago I made schematics of my supply air system.

If you have a 12V air pump and a 110V air pump it is much easier to find air leaks than the newer Newells that have a 2 110V air pump system.  

To start my search for my air leak the first thing I did was to isolate the main supply system from the 12V air system.  I shut off both the 12V & 110V air pumps.  I then drained the air tank I have in basement compartment R-1 and the air tank I have in the front of the right drive tire.  I then installed a leakdown tester in the 3/8" air line that joins the supply system to the 12V air system.  I then aired up the supply air system by turning on both the 110V & 12V air pumps.  Once the 110V air pump shut off I closed the valve on the leakdown tester.  The gauge on the side of the main supply air system did not drop & the 110V air pump did not come on.  The gauge on the 12V supply system immediately dropped until the 12V air pump came on at 30 psi.  The 12V air pump was cycling between 60 psi & 30 psi every 4 minutes.  This info told me I had a substantial air leak in my 12V air system & my main supply system was airtight.  

I shut off both air pumps and drained both air tanks.  I then reviewed my schematic of the 12V air system that I posted in the Documentation section of the forum.  I had four air systems to evaluate for leaks--the slide seals,  pocket doors, rear toilet and front toilet.  I started by installing a leakdown tester in the 1/4" air line coming off the air tank in front of the right drive tire.  I turned on the 12V air pump.  Once the 12V air pump shut off I closed the valve on the tester which isolated the rear slide seal from the 12V air system.  Tester showed the rear slide seal was holding pressure while the 12V system side was dropping and the 12V air pump was continuing to cycle.  I now know the rear slide seal is air tight.  Drained air system.  I then installed a leakdown tester into the 3/8" air line that goes to both slide seals.  Both slide seals were holding air pressure, but the 12V air system continued to drop.  I now have eliminated both slide seals and their air lines.

Drained air system.  Installed the leakdown tester in the air line between the 12V air regulator and the rear Microphor toilet.  I turned on the 12V air pump and shut off the leakdown tester valve when the air pump shut off.  The rear toilet was holding pressure, but the regulator side was leaking and the pump continued to cycle.  Reattached toilet air line to the regulator.  I have now eliminated the rear toilet and all associated air lines as the source of my leak.

Drained air system.  Installed the leakdown tester in the air line between the 12V air regulator and the front Microphor toilet.  I turned on the 12V air pump and shut off the leakdown tester valve when the air pump shut off.  The front toilet WAS NOT holding pressure.  I now know I have an air leak in the front toilet system.  

I still have the pocket door system to test.  Don't assume that you only have one leak.  Drained air system and installed leakdown tester in pocket door air line.  I turned on the 12V air pump and shut off the leakdown tester valve when the air pump shut off.  The pocket door air system held air pressure.

Now to find the air leak in the front toilet system.  I know it is a substantial leak so my tool of choice is my ultrasonic leak detector.  I remove the toilet tank cover and quickly find that the red air line at the toilet air sequence valve is leaking.  I noticed that the air line itself appeared to have pressure against it due to the way it was routed.  Drained air system.  I removed the line, rerouted it and reconnected it.  The leaking line was solved.  That air line had been hooked up for a couple years without leaking.

The tools I used are described in the Tool section in the Fun Stuff part of forum.

Hope this helps.......................................

Hello Gurus,
We are on a trip in Sherman TX.  Went to leave this morning and the front of the coach would not raise to travel height.  Did a little t/s and will try to articulate what is going on:

• With the engine running and air pressure at 120 HWH travel light on the front has not come up...back is fine.
  
• Air is escaping the front six pack manifold exhaust port.
  
• When I try to manually raise the coach I can hear the solenoid activate and more air escape by a factor of two.....coach will not raise.
  
• In the travel mode, I could not locate the magnetized travel solenoids.
  
• When I activate the dump switch I don't hear any change in the air leak.
  

Here are the questions; 

• I looked for a HWH manifold picture identifying the different solenoids in my books and could not find one.....does anyone have a diagram?
  
• On the front six pack which two valves should be energized in the travel mode?
  
• which one of the valves is the dump valve?
  

We are safe in a RV park so not on the side of the road situation.

Thank you in advance for the help!
Steve & Doris