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We're about to pull-the-trigger on a Newell that has basement AC's.  I joined the forum to read posts on this topic and gain some more pragmatic, real-world perspective from other Newell owners.

I didn't see anyone mention the replacement of their basement split-style systems with more modern inverter-based mini-splits (using the cassette-style evaporators).

I bet there is something I've overlooked, a reason this isn't practical.  I was wondering if anyone here might point me in the direction of a past discussion that explains the reason this isn't practical?

Thank you in advance

Hi all,
I just rebuilt my center bath sequencing valve.  Once all re-installed I cracked open the water and it worked perfectly with only a few slight adjustments.  

The next day, when flushed, the flapper would open and stay open with no water at all.  I shut the water off and went to remove the valve to go through it again to see what I could find.  As soon as I released the water supply line to the sequencing valve the flapper shut and the cycle completed.

I went through everything and reinstalled and nothing changed.  I've been on the phone with AnnaMaria at Mullaney & Associates (she's awesome!) trying to diagnose as well as talking to Newell service.  
AnnaMaria thought that my water pressure at 62 PSI was too high and over powering the air pressure at about 58 psi.  I mentioned this to Newell (who said 62 psi is correct and is internally regulated by the headhunter) and he suggested I try using the 12volt pump at 45psi to see if anything changes.  Sure enough - Everything worked correctly.  

So what's going on here?  Toilet works fine on Aux pump but not on Main pump.

I know I can install an in-line regulator, but how did it work previously and why do I have no issue with the rear toilet?

A side note - If you are going to rebuild your sequencing valve opt for the air hose kit from Mullaney & Associates too.  They are a lot more flexible and ton's easier to work with than the original super stiff hoses.

I’m guessing this is a 1980-1983. It has a 105,000 miles and is in visibly mint condition inside and out. Problem is that it hasn’t been started in 20 years even though it’s been stored inside a warehouse. What do you think it’s worth as it sits?

Hey Group, I was wondering if anyone could help me identify this Newell. It’s currently owned by my uncles father-in-law and has been sitting for 28 years. It was last registered in 04’ and I think that was the last time it was started. It has 105,000 miles on it an was in perfect working ordered when parked. It now has a couple of flat tires and dead batteries. What would you guess it’s worth if I offered to buy it pending I could get it running and make sure it’s road worthy again. Pictures for those that have experience or are familiar with 80’s models. It’s always been stored inside. Other than the dust it’s a literal time capsule of an example and the interior and exterior are in mint condition. Zero physical damage whatsoever.

Hello Newell Gurus,
My wife and I have been getting ready and finally, we are shopping for our first Newell.  Our preference would be a 40' mid entry so any and all information on one for sale would be greatly appreciated.  And once we have one, getting to post and participate in this great forum would be our honor.  Cheers and many, many thanks in advance,
Garth

We have a 1997 Newell coach 465. Our living room slide had a major failure and will not retract all the way. The top is locked in with the pins but the bottom is slid out about 1 1/2 inches.

We have an appointment at Newell on Monday Aug 1 and we were all set to leave but transmission will not shift into reverse or drive.

We found the override switch in the silver HWH control box but when switched to override we still can
not move.

Does anyone know how to disconnect the interlock switch from the 4060 Allison Transmission or what to unplug or jumper on the HWH controls that will get us going?

Any help is appreciated.

Rick and Cindy Freeman

i am posting this for a guru member who i talked to this morning.

they are trying to drive from wisconsin to newell to get a front drivers side salon slide repaired.  they have mechanical problems with the slide.  it is in and the pins are down on the top,  the bottom is extended a few inches.   

they cannot get it into gear.  the allison is being told to not go into gear.   e brake is off,  travel light is on and they also said there is NO level light on the hwh control panel.

they turned the slide overide switch on that is inside the hwh control box that should have allowed them to put into gear.

they recycled the ebrake and the hwh control panel for the slide.  

they called newell and they were not able to help them.  

they are in an rv park and was ready to pull out.  

any wisdom here from the gang?

they read on the foreforum that the tranny can be programmed to ignore any signal to stop it from going into gear from the hwh system.  

thanks

tom

I wanted to share some information on a superior product called CorrosionX Aviation. My background has been in aviation for 47 years. During my time working on aircraft I have used every known product under the sun. CorrosionX will correct electrical connection problems and importantly prevent them.  It is a multipurpose lubricant and penetrant that is superior to anything i have ever used. There are numerous uses that this one product can cure and prevent. It will stop any corrosion in steel and aluminum that is active. Additionally will also prevent corrosion with its chemical bonding properties. The product is safe to use on everything except butyl rubber. Meets and exceeds Military Specifications.

Spray this product everywhere!! 

Link Below

https://www.corrosionx.com/collections/c...x-aviation

Anyone have suggestions on the best way to seal the belly/basement doors?  

A few of mine let some water into the basement.  Some of the original seals are not completely adhered to the doors anymore, so they obviously need attention.  Since mine is a 2004, I was thinking of trying something like this (not sure what thickness to get):

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QMLQHB1?p...ct_details

Surely someone here has done this successfully already and can save me making errors.

Thanks!

I have been going through a stack of repair receipts on my coach. Previous owner had the ECU replaced a couple of months prior to my purchase. On the W.W. Williams invoice it shows the ECU as a DDEC IV. It shows pre 98 series 60 programing. How can I tell if that is the case? They paid $4600+ for the ECU swap and programming. I do know when I plug in my VMSpec dongle to the DDEC port up front, it gets power but no communication.  (So this is a two question post)