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I started hearing an odd, pulsing sound from our Aqua-hot when a particular zone would come on.
Then, the noise became a LOT louder and constant.

I verified that it was the zone which supplied the Bedroom and Baths.

So, the research began. I determined it was a bad circulator pump and have since then learned those failed frequently.

Newell is replacing them with OASIS units now, yet Aqua-Hot sells Buehler pumps. I've got the Buehler kit on order since is nearly half the price.

The badder news is...a couple days ago, I found water under the coach and discovered a pool of water in my wet bay. Sooooo, I'm really hoping the two are related; in other words, I'm hoping the bad pump is leaking.

However, the leak has subsided so I'm wondering if, one, the fluid has dropped below the point of leaking or, two, I have a leak elsewhere and the reason for the noisy pump is CAVITATION and not bearing failure.

Anybody? Chime in...PLEASE!!

So a couple weeks ago we were headed out to Tennessee to visit our property and for a wrenching rally with the Wanderlodge crew, right before we left our toad died as we were pulling up to our house. Its a 2016 Range Rover with the TDV6 diesel engine in it. This engine went on to become the Powerstroke engine in the F150. So as we were returning home the night before we were to leave, the car jerked and then died just before getting to the house. Coasted and got it partly in the driveway. I decided to pull it up some with my truck but then decided I wanted to get it under our carport so I could work on it when I got back home. I did not think about it but it was suggested to see if our golf car would pull it. So I hooked it up to the golf car and it pulled it right into the carport.
Fast forward to this weekend and I started tearing into the engine to see what occurred. I checked the engine codes and found that I have several codes for low fuel rail pressure. I was thinking the worst as this engine has the dreaded CP-4 fuel pump. I will also mention that I just changed the timing belt and the belt that drives the CP-4 pump recently since we just passed the 100k mile mark. I thought that the belt might have slipped or something.
First check was to pull the metering valve off the CP-4 to look for metal debris in the system, luckily the metering valve was clean as a whistle. No CP-4 failure, but I am not tempting fate. This is going to get a disaster prevention kit put on it before I run it again, or if it runs again.
Next check was to see if the CP-4 pump belt broke etc. After much work to get down to it, its on the back of the engine buried back by the firewall, I open up the case and the belt is intact and still under tension. Now I go ahead and put my ratchet on the crank and turn the engine over, the pump belt is not turning!! Well that's not good.
So now I go to the front of the engine to see what's going on. After removing a bunch of other stuff to get the front timing cover off, the new timing belt is snapped. Its strange, its snapped like someone almost cut it! What the heck is going on. I am thinking the worst at this point, as this is an interference engine. I am thinking valve debris scattered in the cylinders!!
So now I start digging into the injectors to get them out so I can put a bore scope down in the cylinder. Get all the injectors out and check the cylinders, no major debris. Some strange markings in a couple of them but nothing that looks like the valves have been destroyed. Keep looking.
As I am turning the crank, it stops, so I assume it may be hitting the valves, so I turn the driver side camshaft and all is well it turns some more. I turn the passenger side cam and it starts making some strange popping noise, no good! So I continue digging. Start removing all the stuff to get the cam cover off. BTW this engines cam covers are also the intake plenum. I pull the cam cover off the passenger side and there it is! There is a chain that runs between two camshafts on each head, the chain was broken and jammed. I am not sure what caused the chain to break but I am assuming the chain broke then that jammed and then broke the timing belt. I suppose it could have been the other way around and the belt broke, maybe the piston hit a valve stopping the cam and that snapped the chain? So now I am going to do a compression/leak down check of the cylinders to see if there is any damage to the pistons. If it passes that test then, I am going to re-assemble with new chains and new timing belt and hope for the best!


I will add some photos here from my phone for your enjoyment.


Piston, appears to have a small kiss on it. No debris inside. Mark seems to change with the light from the bore scope so hard to tell exactly what it was. The mark on the right side is not round like the imprint of the valve.
   

More possible debris or something happening around the edge of this piston.
   

Another shot of that kiss mark on the piston, here you can see how its more of a reflection on the side of the cylinder wall.
   

Close up of broken chain.
   

Here is how the chain looked when I pulled the cam cover off, it was bunched up locking the cams from rotating.
   

The snapped timing belt.
   

The chain tensioner, its not damaged at all and did not seem that it contributed to any failure.
   


Hoping this weekend I will be checking the compression and seeing what my next step is. 

Hi all,
We have had a 1986 coach for 14 years and she was been a dream.
The first switch (with the up/arrows) on the driver side arm rest of the Recaro seat has failed. It is 4 wire. Not having any luck for a replacement. Nothing on ebay etc. any suggestions? I was wondering if we could just convert to a plug and play?

I am going to replace the solenoid valves on the manual air leveling system. I have purchased the valves, 12 total. There are six in the front and six in the back. I’m wanting to know how they work before I remove them. What l can tell, two are exhaust and two let air in. The other two I’m not sure. There are two of a different style not sure about them also. Does anyone have any information about this? Wiring Schematic or how they are piped in?

I am going to replace the solenoid valves on the manual air leveling system. I have purchased the valves, 12 total. There are six in the front and six in the back. I’m wanting to know how they work before I remove them. What l can tell, two are exhaust and two let air in. The other two I’m not sure. There are two of a different style not sure about them also. Does anyone have any information about this? Wiring Schematic or how they are piped in?

Hi all,

Newbie here! We are beginning our search for a Newell in the 2007-2010 range. We are no strangers to RVs, we started full-timing in a class A in 2015, had an airstream, my husband built out a sprinter van and now we are full-time in a storyteller Hilt, adventure truck. Due to health reasons, we are looking for something larger and more comfy for my husband but don’t want to give up the lifestyle. We are going to look at a Newell on Tuesday in OK and do the factory tour in Miami! We are both a little concerned about the size of these coaches since we’ve never driven a 45’ RV. Is anyone looking to sell a shorter Newell, I believe that’s like looking for a unicorn but wanted to ask?! Also, is anyone selling their coach that hasn’t been listed yet?! Thanks in advance!

Hello, I have a 2008 Newell and the CAC is leaking.  The original manufacturer was Positech International, but they seem to now be out of business.  Does anyone know of a company that can build a replacement?  I would prefer not to rebuild the one I have if possible due to it being 23 years old, possibly.  It may have been changed out in the past before I owned the coach.  The CAC has been painted black and it looks like a bomber can job and not a factory job.  

Also if anyone has a drawing of the unit that would allow another manufacturer or shop to build one, that would be exceptional!

I have a couple of photos of the leaking around the frame supporting the CAC.  Seems the pressure has blown out the sealant that was used when it was installed.  The area must be somewhat confined to be able to build pressure.  Sorry, I tried to upload a video, but system doesn't allow it.

Any advice is certainly appreciated!

   
   
   

Thank you,

Jerry Hayes

Hello,

We purchased coach 1497 from The Motorcoach Store and did not get the sliding drink console with it.  Any chance someone here has one they would be willing to part with?

Ty
Brad & Heidi

I’ve been helping my uncle care for his Newell for the last couple years. I’ve made numerous repairs to the interior and exterior, including replacing slide bearings.

As many of you know I purchased coach 435 about a year ago. Rewired a ton of it and other major work. New tires and airbags. Tons of work done and ready to roll. 
Took the summer to sell my house and prepare for the trip from Alaska to Maine. 
Well we started out last Friday from Anchorage and everything went smoothly. Made it to Tok roughly  and called it a day. Woke up Saturday morning  changed an airbags that had a factory defect and had been sent a replacement. Easy enough got that done in 45 minutes. And... the governor on the compressor dies. Thankfully I'm 15 minutes from NAPA so I go grab a new one and a spare. Get back k swap that out and get a late start. 
Knowing the road is extremely unpleasant we didn't go far. Made it to Destruction bay and called it a night. Sunday morning coach starts a bit sluggish but we're on our way. Notice the volt gauge is pretty low and discovered the alternator is not charging. Flip the generator on and continue onward. 
Stop for the night at watson lake since everything is closed in Canada on Sunday. 
Monday we make another 450 ish miles of progress with the gen running all day and all goes well.
Tuesday...
No power at the key. Not a big deal. Run 2 hours away and get new ignition switch as this had been troublesome before. Swap with new switch. Still nothing. All fuses are good checked each one. Checked each circuit breaker all in order. At a loss and getting late with park closing for the season on Wednesday at noon. I start to panic a bit and call Newell.
Get call back in 10 minutes and was directed to the back panel box where there's a Klixon breaker. Power in and nothing out. Seems problem solved. Had a spare marine breaker with me so quick 10 minute swap out.
Using the mechanics switch in the rear coach will spin for days but not fire. 
Called it a night since it was getting late.
Yesterday morning I call Newell since I've got 5 hours to get my coach out of the park I'm at. Never get a return call. Call a service shop in Fort St. John and they give me the number for a tow.
He shows up in a shiny white kenworth tridrive with tri axle landol. He briefly checks a few things and realizes I was a commercial driver for years and have already narrowed it down to a fried ECM. He agrees and loads it up.  Couple hours later and we are at the shop waiting in line. They say it could be Monday before they can get to it. 
So anyways. Here's a few nice pictures of the coach going for an adventure  after being stationary for about a decade.

I did get a new alternator when I got the new ignition switch.