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Had a brake dragging issue, after a long stop it seemed to be ok.  Temps went down.  Now at my location as soon as I release the parking brake there is a pretty massive brake system leak in the rear.  I'm pretty sure it is on that same passenger drive wheel.  As soon as I apply the parking brake the leak stops.

Any ideas what has failed.


I'm at Mountain Falls, North Carolina  Might also need mobile repair if it's not something I can do my self.  Any one have any recommendations for this area.

I will be replacing my front 315 rims and tires at Newell as I have decided to upgrade to 365.  These are for hubs with 1-1/8 studs.  They are in almost new condition.  One has a brand new tire, the other was put on in 2018 with minimal mileage.  If you are interested, let me know soon.  My appointment is at beginning of Nov, but I imagine it will be the sometime in Dec when they would be available.

Got this from a friend that installs lots of different high-tech home devices.

“So this co, Wyze, has been making some smart home tech for a few years now aimed at a more budget friendly market and I have tried some of their stuff just to get a take This is the video launching their new video doorbell.”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJX4aSdy...annel=Wyze

If you already have WiFi it's a no wire solution,

hi all,

several years ago, the rubber door seal on the actual door itself of my bode air dear ripped about half way up on the left of the door as you are outside.  the rip was about 2-3 inches long.   i superglued it and it lasted a while and i glued it a second time.  

so i decided to replace it.  i called bode north america and gave them the door assembly part number which is listed in my thread from years ago.  it also has the bode drawings and part numbers for everything on the door.  

with that, i ordered the exterior door seal.   300 bucks.   

http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=655

it sat around for a while and since richard was here for a week, we decided to tackle replacing it

the seal came with preformed 90 degree corners for the top of the door and was about 2 feet long on each sided past the bottom of the door 

it did NOT have any of the holes cut in it for the 4 latches and 2 deadbolts.   we experimented with how to cut the holes on the old rubber (which by the way was much harder and more brittle than the new soft rubber seal)  it was the original as it had paint from when the coach was painted on it.  

richard set up my drill press with a forstner bit to drill the holes in the rubber, yea it worked and we experimented before doing it on the final piece.  there were 16 oblong holes for the latches (2 for each of the 4 latches) and 2 more for the deadbolts. 

there is no room for error or you will be buying a new 300 buck seal.  

we marked everything on the door with painters tape and pencil markings to know exactly where the adjustable latches had previously been.   then took the latches off, put the new seal on before cutting any holes in it, put it in the groove on the top and just around the top corners, then let the seal hang, and transfered the markings on the painters tape on the door to the new seal.

once we did that, we took the seal off and the holes were drilled and elongated with nippers.  

putting the seal on takes alot of slippery lubricant (we used the kids bubbles i use for air leaks) on the seal as then you have to get it pushed into an angular groove in the door (just like the slide seals).  

once the seal was all the way on and "adjusted" to make it fit over the holes, i cut the bottom off flush with the door, and put the two bottom new screws in to keep it from coming out at the bottom.  

then i spent some time adjusting the latches to get the door to inch upwards snugly (as the door closes, it comes in, the inches upward about 3/4 of an inch to get itself in the sloped latches.  

richard was the main hole cutter and i did my usual superversion.....ha    nice to have skilled helpers here.  

pictures below.  

tom

I have a Newell 45 with a 600 HP  and 60K on mechanic . i am considering parting it all out and sell it in part to recover the purchass  . i will not part anything unless i know the money i spent can come back .don't ask for parts untill engine and gen are sold .i been told pre antipolution engine are a hot thing . text me if you know where i could advertize it 613 561 2456 [email protected]     fibromobile.com

Hi all,

My “gift”, if you will, is the love of technology and to make it usable yet understandable.  I’ve done this for years and years and, now that I am an RV-er, I’ve had the “prodding” to start making videos to help others.  So, I guess that’s what retirement is for, huh?  LOL!

Seriously though, I get a TON of enjoyment from seeing others have the lightbulb come on and suddenly make sense of the topic that once made them run for the hills!

So, that said…this video seems to be helping others so I wanted to post it as it’s own topic here, to make it easier to find.  Please let me know if you have any questions or need clarification.

ENJOY!!

Getting Connected to the Internet on the Road with a Pepwave Transit Duo

We really like this coach and would love any info you might have on it.
We are newbies to Newell and don't know what we don't know.

Morning all, I've had a few instances where my emergency brake didn't want to release. 

Any ideas what would cause that?
Thought I'd ask here first before calling newell service. I'm home now but don't like what I'm seeing with it.

I have had a nagging problem where my front drivers side airbag will lose air over night.   

i measured all four corners and it would drop about 1.5 inches a day.  enough where the coach would always be uneven.  so i had gotten into the habit of dropping it all the way when i parked.  even then, the front driver side would be low in a day or two.   when we lived in the coach for 6 months in one place, i put two 3/4" pieces of plywood under that front tire to stay level.  

i have replaced the airbag, rebuilt the six pack and used my isolation valves and gauges at the six pack and it will drop when the six pack is taken out of the loop.  

richard was here for a week and just left.  and i have a nice shop with all the gear.   including 4  22 ton jackstands,   a 22 ton air over hydraulic low jack, semi truck tire dolly and 1 inch air impact guns with large shop compressor.   and music, refreshments, leather couches, viper rolling chairs, lazy boy in shop etc.  

so.....lets back up and explain the plumbing for the front suspension on MY coach.  may be different on yours.  

the front airbags are the firestone W01-358-8087.  they are very large when inflated.  it has a 3/4" air inlet that a 3/4" cloth covered airline that goes to the ping tank in the front crossmember frame rail.   my vintage of coach has ping tanks....which are about a 3-4" square tube that is part of the frame that runs from side to side.  it is divided in the center and each side creates an air tank.  the large diameter air hose goes from the airbag to the ping tank.   then there is a 3/8" airbrake tubing that runs from the ping tank to the six pack.  

that 3/8" line is where the air gets to the airbag from both the leveling system AND the ride height valve (all through the six pack)

the fittings on top of the ping tank are impossible to get at.   richard is half my size and he couldnt get up there.  

so......we are trying an experiment.   we eliminated the ping tank completely.   the purpose of the ping tank is to give additional air volume to the airbag to make the bag act like it has alot more air for cushion.  i put new airbags on a gurus 1984 classic and it had no ping tanks.  i looked at a 2007 that was here we worked on and it didnt appear to have ping tanks.   we did some rough calculations on air volume and we think the ping tank only added less than a 1/4 additional volume to the bag.  maybe less.  i called and talked to the suspension tech at newell and he said the newer ones dont have ping tanks....

so we took the front tires off, the airbag out, took the big adapter fitting out and put in a 3/4 male to 3/8" female brass adapter and put a 3/8" straight airbrake compression fitting in, attached the new 3/8" dot air brake tubing to it and ran it directly to the six pack.  did that on both sides.   richards smaller size made it nice for me so he did the tight space work.  

i am happy to say that after 3 days, it is no longer dropping.   i have not driven it yet as i have a number of things to put back together before i take it out.  

tom

Saw a 90’s coach, mostly white with light green accent stripe headed W on I 40 around noonish between Flagstaff and Holbrook AZ.