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• Latest member:JeffreySammons

Soon as I get the rear slide board back from HWH we are putting it on the market for sale or trade. Trades for sports cars, Class B rv, cadillac escalade, RV lot south or north. If I told you the amount of money invested without adding in over 2 plus years of labor you wouldn't believe me and we have come to realisation we just need to move on. I will start with the most important parts of its transformation, she has good bones paint is presentable but not by any means perfect, if you buy a Newell that looks good and has not been taken care of you will spend a few years and many 10s of thousands getting it in the shape this one is in. $120k or best offer.

3.5 tons of mini split and will freeze you out or burn you up your choice very quietly wifi controlled 
5250 watts of solar with powers the mini split system with 8k split phase inverter on line 24/7
8k btu diesel to air heater back up or for front driver area
8k btu diesel water heater with flat plate heat exchanger for hot water when boondocking
new drive tires in 2022, new tag and steer in 2023
AGM batteries were new in 2022 when we bought it
lead acid engine batteries new in 2022 and 2023
front and rear slides do not leak! 
air compressor comes on every 12 hrs
air bags were replaced prior to my ownership still have white tags on them
tag axle bushings replaced 
macerator toilet, macerator dump
new inverter refrigerator 
new inverter microwave
new washer dryer combo old unit had plug caught fire!
leather couch over $3k
48" lg tv
5 color cameras, front, rear 180 degree, left, right, and inside

We are leaving the end of October and it will sit till next spring but truly interested parties I will come home for inspection.

Was wondering if anyone has any information on this coach available at MOT.

Thank you!

Hello all,

Newly acquired 1971 gas pusher

391FT, Allison transmission 

Anyone know where the VIN plate is located?  

Any idea if a wiring schematics exist?

It had an engine bay fire so it is a big work in progress.

I have been replacing parts and rewiring as I go. 

 Swapped starter, new carb, electric fuel pump, new coil and points, new plugs.  dual Flowmaster exhaust 

My main concern (and lack of understanding)

There is an air brake controller that was connected to the inlet of the air compressor.  It's wiring is burnt up.  Do I need that component?  Or will just a filter suffice? If so does anyone have a photo of the wiring ?


Any advice?

Tips?

I have the transmission shifting on a short rod coming through the floor in back as the cam system is seized currently.

Runs and drives on flat ground in storage yard.   I haven't had the gall to take it for a rip yet.

I'm going to want to do the brakes soon so I am wondering about axel ID (hx-70?)and associated parts suppliers?  

What should i replace/inspect?

Any modifications recommemded?

Thank you for your consideration.

Hi guys - does anyone know if/where replacement bathroom roof vents or parts for vents can be obtained? 

We have one that opens but no fan, the other does not open (handle just spins freely) but fan works. I'm hoping they come apart and can be repaired but not holding my breath. 

Dave

   

Hello, 
 It's been quite a few years since I was on here.
We're planning on bringing our 77 Newell to Arizona this fall to store it for the winter. We plan on flying down periodically from Alberta and touring.
 Just looking for recommendations, on where to visit as well as a good place for storage while we're gone.
 I prefer a covered secure facility if possible.

Thank you!!
Keith

Dear Newell friends.
I need to replace the two windscreens on our Newell (1970)
I am  looking for the original rubber to insert the windshields (the width of the rubber is 1 inch ) Since I live in the Netherlands, these are not available here, and perhaps one of you knows where I could get them (see photo).
I would be very grateful to you for your help.
Greetzzzz from the Netherlands
Pieter

I started hearing an odd, pulsing sound from our Aqua-hot when a particular zone would come on.
Then, the noise became a LOT louder and constant.

I verified that it was the zone which supplied the Bedroom and Baths.

So, the research began. I determined it was a bad circulator pump and have since then learned those failed frequently.

Newell is replacing them with OASIS units now, yet Aqua-Hot sells Buehler pumps. I've got the Buehler kit on order since is nearly half the price.

The badder news is...a couple days ago, I found water under the coach and discovered a pool of water in my wet bay. Sooooo, I'm really hoping the two are related; in other words, I'm hoping the bad pump is leaking.

However, the leak has subsided so I'm wondering if, one, the fluid has dropped below the point of leaking or, two, I have a leak elsewhere and the reason for the noisy pump is CAVITATION and not bearing failure.

Anybody? Chime in...PLEASE!!

So a couple weeks ago we were headed out to Tennessee to visit our property and for a wrenching rally with the Wanderlodge crew, right before we left our toad died as we were pulling up to our house. Its a 2016 Range Rover with the TDV6 diesel engine in it. This engine went on to become the Powerstroke engine in the F150. So as we were returning home the night before we were to leave, the car jerked and then died just before getting to the house. Coasted and got it partly in the driveway. I decided to pull it up some with my truck but then decided I wanted to get it under our carport so I could work on it when I got back home. I did not think about it but it was suggested to see if our golf car would pull it. So I hooked it up to the golf car and it pulled it right into the carport.
Fast forward to this weekend and I started tearing into the engine to see what occurred. I checked the engine codes and found that I have several codes for low fuel rail pressure. I was thinking the worst as this engine has the dreaded CP-4 fuel pump. I will also mention that I just changed the timing belt and the belt that drives the CP-4 pump recently since we just passed the 100k mile mark. I thought that the belt might have slipped or something.
First check was to pull the metering valve off the CP-4 to look for metal debris in the system, luckily the metering valve was clean as a whistle. No CP-4 failure, but I am not tempting fate. This is going to get a disaster prevention kit put on it before I run it again, or if it runs again.
Next check was to see if the CP-4 pump belt broke etc. After much work to get down to it, its on the back of the engine buried back by the firewall, I open up the case and the belt is intact and still under tension. Now I go ahead and put my ratchet on the crank and turn the engine over, the pump belt is not turning!! Well that's not good.
So now I go to the front of the engine to see what's going on. After removing a bunch of other stuff to get the front timing cover off, the new timing belt is snapped. Its strange, its snapped like someone almost cut it! What the heck is going on. I am thinking the worst at this point, as this is an interference engine. I am thinking valve debris scattered in the cylinders!!
So now I start digging into the injectors to get them out so I can put a bore scope down in the cylinder. Get all the injectors out and check the cylinders, no major debris. Some strange markings in a couple of them but nothing that looks like the valves have been destroyed. Keep looking.
As I am turning the crank, it stops, so I assume it may be hitting the valves, so I turn the driver side camshaft and all is well it turns some more. I turn the passenger side cam and it starts making some strange popping noise, no good! So I continue digging. Start removing all the stuff to get the cam cover off. BTW this engines cam covers are also the intake plenum. I pull the cam cover off the passenger side and there it is! There is a chain that runs between two camshafts on each head, the chain was broken and jammed. I am not sure what caused the chain to break but I am assuming the chain broke then that jammed and then broke the timing belt. I suppose it could have been the other way around and the belt broke, maybe the piston hit a valve stopping the cam and that snapped the chain? So now I am going to do a compression/leak down check of the cylinders to see if there is any damage to the pistons. If it passes that test then, I am going to re-assemble with new chains and new timing belt and hope for the best!


I will add some photos here from my phone for your enjoyment.


Piston, appears to have a small kiss on it. No debris inside. Mark seems to change with the light from the bore scope so hard to tell exactly what it was. The mark on the right side is not round like the imprint of the valve.
   

More possible debris or something happening around the edge of this piston.
   

Another shot of that kiss mark on the piston, here you can see how its more of a reflection on the side of the cylinder wall.
   

Close up of broken chain.
   

Here is how the chain looked when I pulled the cam cover off, it was bunched up locking the cams from rotating.
   

The snapped timing belt.
   

The chain tensioner, its not damaged at all and did not seem that it contributed to any failure.
   


Hoping this weekend I will be checking the compression and seeing what my next step is. 

Hi all,
We have had a 1986 coach for 14 years and she was been a dream.
The first switch (with the up/arrows) on the driver side arm rest of the Recaro seat has failed. It is 4 wire. Not having any luck for a replacement. Nothing on ebay etc. any suggestions? I was wondering if we could just convert to a plug and play?

I am going to replace the solenoid valves on the manual air leveling system. I have purchased the valves, 12 total. There are six in the front and six in the back. I’m wanting to know how they work before I remove them. What l can tell, two are exhaust and two let air in. The other two I’m not sure. There are two of a different style not sure about them also. Does anyone have any information about this? Wiring Schematic or how they are piped in?