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This last weekend I was getting ready to leave the park after a 4 day stay. I dumped the waste tank then closed the valve and water started flowing every where. I rushed in and cut off the Headhunter. Not knowing where the water was coming from and being only 3 hours from home I decided to just wait until I get home to find the problem. Well what happened was the T handle on the air valve caught the frig flex hose and broke it off at the connection to the water manifold. The hoses have 1/2 inch standard pipe thread on each end and found them at Lowes. They had only 20' lengths which is OK, because some are 12" and some are 20" and longer. For the longer ones I bought a nipple. I did not replace all of them because some looked like they had been replaced. I then tie-wrapped the ones near the air valve where this will not happen again. So I guess the moral of the story is buy some of these flex hoses for your extra parts box. Chappell

Motorhomes of Texas just got in a 1998 bath and half. Looks like a single front slide but not sure. $139500 with 117,000 miles.
Not on their website yet but I have a couple pictures if anyone is interested.

For you guys that want to bring your garage with you, this is great!

http://www.powerhousecoach.com/video.html

Go down to the video for "Enclosed trailers" & watch the 35' self propelled one. Very cool idea.

Another 99 is near me .. Wonder who they are [/php]

This weekend my window shade at the front end of the front slide would not stay up. The mechanism the holds it up came apart. Looking at how to replace the part seems very difficult. I have repaired the pleated shades on other windows. This one is not pleated but solid and either stays up or all the way down. Has anyone had this problem and if so how did you repair it. Chappell

http://www.glendinningprods.com/gmp/pdf/...Manual.pdf

My coach has a cablemaster CM-7 installed for the power cord. It slips some as the cord goes in or out. I adjusted the main cable pulley and now no slippage. The procedure is simple & only took about 15 minutes. The procedure is outlined in the owners manual, but I'll repeat it in case one doesn't have the manual. If your cord slips the pulley is too loose. If you can not easily pull the cord out with the motor off, it is too tight.

The pulley adjustment is done by adding(loosen) or removing(tighten) nylon shims. The two piece pulley is held together with four 1/4" studs, nuts & lock washers. Remove the four 1/4" nuts and lock washers and the outside of the pulley easily pulls off. Each stud will have a number of shims depending on the size of your cord--mine had 3 shims on each stud. I removed one shim from each stud so as to tighten the pulley and correct the slippage. Note: the manual advises removing only one shim at a time and retest and always have the same number of shims on each stud. Each shim in mine were .030. Put the outer half of the pulley back on over the studs and put the nuts and lock washers on hand tight. Tighten the nuts on the studs as you pull and push the cable in & out so you don't pinch the cable. First by hand & then with a wrench or socket. Once tight, test your adjustment. If still slipping, then remove a second shim and retest.

Does anyone have a source to have the A/C control board rebuilt. I found one in my 1997 I have recently aquired. I would like to have a fresh one for backup. Thanks,

I was curious how my thee position "emergency start" dash switch worked, so I checked it out today. What I found is that the merge switch is off when in the middle position. My merge solenoid has only one actuating positive wire going to it. Thus, moving the dash switch either up or down does the same thing which is to activate the solenoid. There is no switching to the house or chassis battery bank.

I've called Newell, and they can't tell me, but I've seen it on other coaches of my vintage. (2003 coach 359) What do these lights indicate?